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Let the sky rain potatoes . . . Let there be a tempest of provocation.
— Falstaff (in The Merry Wives of Windsor)

Many of us in the food world and many who just care about good food, let out a big sigh of relief when the news hit that interest inlow-carbohydrate diets was waning. While it's very likely true that America's burgeoning waistline is partly due to the overconsumption of empty carbohydrates, especially in the form of fast food, how can anyone consider banishing potatoes from their diet? Aside from the fact that they are so delicious, so versatile, so inexpensive and so easy to prepare, plus represent to many the epitome of what has popularly come to be known as comfort food, let us not forget that they are also vegetables. You know, that food group we are all being advised to consume every day and in variety. Nevertheless, potatoes have had a rough time. First, they were snubbed by both gourmet and health food snobs as one half of the much-maligned 'meat & potatoes' diet. Numerous people eschewed them because they believed they were fattening (it was more likely the lavish topping of butter and sour cream, not the potatoes). Then along came Dr. Atkins who further demonized these glorious tubers, convincing otherwise rational folks into banishing them from their diets (he maintained that the butter and sour cream were okay). Of course, they never really fell out of favor among fast-food junkies for whom a super-sized order of fries is a daily ritual, but unfortunately, they are usually laced with unhealthy trans fats, and accompanied by white bread and sugary sodas of an equally super size. Besides, variety is the spice of life, and life is too short to only enjoy potatoes one way. With that in mind, it seemed like it was high time to dig up some facts about one of the world's and certainly America's favorite vegetable.

Spuds & Taters
When most people think of potatoes (Solanum tuberosum), they usually recall the standard russets, or Idaho potatoes, creamers or perhaps some of the newly discovered heirloom varieties. In fact, hundreds of varieties are still grown in their native soil in the Andes of South America. Although wild potatoes have been around since prehistoric times, they have been cultivated for more than 2,000 years in the land of the Incas, or in what is now Peru and Bolivia. To North American consumers, many varieties would be nearly unrecognizable. Some are resistant to frost and grow as high as 13,000 feet near the frost line. Others prosper in climates so warm and arid that regular cultivated potatoes would certainly fail. And though the sweet potato also hails from the New World, they are unrelated to the potato, nor are yams, which are native to Africa.

Curiously, despite the fact that potatoes originated in our southern hemisphere, they only became popular there after they were brought back from Europe where they had been introduced via Spain in the 16th century. Even there they failed to catch on right away since many mistakenly accused them of being poisonous due to their familial relation to deadly nightshade, also a member of the Solanum genus. Their first acceptance came not as nutritious food but as an aphrodisiac, an erroneous notion alluded to by lusty old Jack Falstaff in the opening quote. In Shakespeare's time, they were still not highly regarded as food in Europe. Of course, they at last did become popular and quickly circumnavigated the world, becoming firmly entrenched in the food cultures of five continents (and they are no doubt consumed in Antarctica as well) where they are known variously as papas, kartoffel, kartochki, pomme de terre, aardappel, seb-i-zaminee, aloo and even spud, British slang for a potato-digging spade.

Basically, there are two types of potatoes — starchy and waxy. Some, like Yukon Gold for example, fall somewhere in the middle. Starchy potatoes are great mashed, baked and of course, any time frying is involved, such as French fries or potato chips. However, when boiled, they tend to fall apart, making this method of cooking a perfect choice for waxy varieties, although they are also great roasted and mashed.

Potatoes are very nutritious. They are jammed with potassium, niacin, magnesium and the vitamins B6 and C. Many contend that all a potato's nutrition is endemic to its skin. In fact, plenty of nutrition resides in the meat of the potato, but the thin layer directly under the skin does contain most of the vitamin C and a good deal of the flavor, so consider leaving all or some of the skin on even when making mashed potatoes.

When selecting potatoes of any variety, choose wrinkle-free ones, and those without sprouts or green spots. They should be kept in a cool, dark place in paper bags or baskets rather than plastic; don't store them with onions or other aromatics. With few exceptions, such as small red creamers, never refrigerate potatoes.

It's ironic that we have traditionally looked to Europe for our greatest potato recipes even though they originated on this side of the pond, but there it is. Fortunately, they have provided us with plenty to choose from, coupled with our indigenous dishes, making it possible to eat potatoes every day without tiring of any one method of preparation. They serve as perfect vehicles for all sorts of other ingredients and toppings, and can accompany meat, fish and fowl, as well as other vegetables. Whole books have been devoted to potatoes, including Lydie Marshall's splendid A Passion for Potatoes (HarperCollins) and Florence Fabricant's The Great Book of Potatoes (Ten Speed Press). New on the shelves is Melissa's Great Book of Produce (see recipe from it below) that includes a wonderful chapter on potatoes. Now that the misguided carbo-phobes have settled down, potatoes can once again claim their place in the spotlight and should be featured in prepared food cases everywhere.

Recipes
Irish Fried Potatoes
Serves 6
This delicious nod to the Irish and their potatoes was given to me by Chef MikeC, co-owner of the newly opened cooking school, Kitchen On Fire (www.kitchenonfire.com), located in Berkeley, Calif.
Ingredients
• 4-5 each slices of thick-cut bacon, diced
• ½ cup onions, diced
• 4-5 cups potatoes, small, diced and rinsed
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 1/3 cup malt vinegar
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation
Render the bacon in a large cast iron pan on medium-high heat for about 6-8 minutes or until most of the fat has melted. Add the potatoes and cook, stirring often, for about 20 minutes, or until the potatoes soften and begin to turn golden brown. You may have to turn heat down to medium during this process. Heat the sugar with the vinegar until it has dissolved. Pour in with the potatoes along with the butter and continue to cook until the desired doneness is reached. Season with salt and pepper.

Red, White and Blue Potato Salad
Serves 6
This recipe for an American favorite comes from the newly published Melissa's Great Book of Produce (John Wiley & Sons) by Cathy Thomas, along with co-creators Sharon Hernandez, Chef Ida Rodriguez, "Produce Expert" Robert Schueller and Melissa herself from renowned produce purveyor Melissa's World Variety Produce.
Ingredients
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 sprig fresh rosemary
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 2 medium cloves of garlic
• ½ pound clean red creamer (baby) potatoes
• ½ pound clean purple creamer (baby) potatoes
• ½ pound clean white creamer (baby) potatoes
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more for dressing
• ¼ cup white wine vinegar
• 1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
• 2 stalks celery, trimmed and thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley
• 2 green onions, thinly sliced (include dark green stalks)

Preparation
Place herbs, white wine and garlic in a large saucepan or Dutch oven. Cut potatoes into 1-inch cubes, leaving the skin intact, and add to pan. Add cold water to cover by one inch, and then add salt. Bring to a boil on high heat. Reduce heat to medium and boil gently until potatoes are tender, about 10-12 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the dressing by combining vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper. Whisk in olive oil in thin stream.

Drain potatoes and discard herbs. Gently toss warm potatoes with enough dressing to coat. Add celery and toss. Add parsley and green onions and gently toss. Correct seasoning if necessary and serve at room temperature.