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Dec 01, 2006
Recipes for Success: Duck ReduxBy James Mellgren
Email the editor: jmellgren@gourmetretailer.comThe first time I had Peking Duck was an epiphany of sorts, and very entertaining. First, the roasted duck was presented at tableside. The crisp, glistening, amber-colored skin gave no hint of the juicy, succulent meat inside. After showing us the duck, the server took it away and returned moments later with the first of three courses: sweet, moist little steamed pancakes in which to roll up the crispy skin, cucumber, herbs and sweet bean paste. Next was a stir-fry comprised of the bulk of the meat from the carcass, cooked with rice and vegetables. Finally, the meal concluded with an intoxicating duck broth made from the remaining carcass that had been simmering away while we were eating the other courses. Peking Duck is named for the Chinese city in which it originated (Peking is now officially known as Beijing but the name has stayed with the dish), as well as for the type of duck used (aka Long Island Duck). The process for making the dish is complex, involving the pumping of air in between the skin and the body to puff up the bird, blanching the whole bird, and filling the cavity with boiling water before roasting in the oven in order to keep the meat moist and succulent. My initiation into the ritual of Peking Duck was significant because I had heard of it all my life but really had no idea what it was and, because duck was not part of my upbringing, I was astonished to experience how delicious and satisfying a duck could be. The Other Red Meat Ducks were first raised for the table in China over 2,000 years ago, and indeed, they are still a common component of Chinese cuisine. Today, most ducks that are consumed are domesticated, and they are raised all over the world. Almost all domesticated ducks are descended from the Mallard, also known simply as “wild duck.” One of these — the Peking Duck — was brought over to North America from China in the late nineteenth century, eventually flourished on Long Island duck farms, evolved over time, and finally came to be known as Long Island Duck — our most common variety today. Today in the U.S., Peking ducks and Long Island ducks are considered the same. According to Maple Leaf Farms, approximately 80 percent of the duck in the U.S. is white Peking/Long Island duck. Duck is renowned for its taste, of course, but there are many misconceptions among the American public which no doubt keep lots of folks from cooking duck at home. For example, contrary to what many cooks believe, duck is very easy to prepare, adapts to a broad array of recipes and spices, and can even be prepared in a microwave. Duck also has a reputation of being very fatty. While this is true to a certain extent, duck actually has less fat and calories than chicken and, depending on how you cook it, you can reduce 75 percent of the fat that renders off. Plus, duck doesn’t reabsorb the fat once it has cooked off. For the retailer, studies have shown that people who eat duck tend to have strong memories of the occasion, and people who shop for duck tend to purchase $40 more in groceries and wine than usual. That in itself is a great reason to carry duck in your store. More and more restaurants are offering duck on their menus which in turn should help spur sales of duck in the store. Of course, as American consumers warm up to duck, they will increasingly look to you for answers on how to prepare it. So don’t be daffy; start boning up on duck techniques now. The following are some tips for successfully preparing duck. A special thanks to Maple Leaf Farms for generously sharing their research and recipes. • Duck is a sturdy meat and freezes well. • Pierce the skin on a whole duck to allow the fat to run out during cooking. • Cook duck to an internal temperature of 155º F and then let it rest until it reaches 160º F. • You can’t cook duck by color since it’s a red meat. In fact, it has the same cellular structure as steak. • Duck breasts plump up when cooked. • Ducks are naturally low in salmonella — less than 0.5 percent. • Don’t get rid of duck fat. It can be used to sauté potatoes and other vegetables, omelets, and can even be used in pastry. • A University of Wisconsin study showed that duck fat has the same properties as olive oil. • When roasting a whole duck, quarter an orange (think Canard à l’orange) and a lemon, and stuff them inside the cavity. Cut the top off a head of garlic, add celery and roast. You’ll have an excellent garlic appetizer when the duck is finished. Rendering and Cooking Procedure for Duck Breasts These instructions were provided by Corporate Chef Clark Raines of Maple Leaf Farms. 1. Thaw and cut breasts into single lobe portions. 2. Trim skin to the shape of the meat. 3. Score skin into ¼” intervals (do not cut into breast meat). Rotate breast and score again, making a crisscross pattern. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Using a non-stick pan on low to medium heat, place the breast skin side down for approximately 8-12 minutes or until fat is rendered, and skin is crisp and brown. 5. Turn breast over and cook 1-2 minutes more. Place breasts in 400° oven for 3-4 minutes or until internal temperature is 160° F. Let meat rest for 2-3 minutes before slicing. Recipes Canard au Vin This is a brilliant and delicious take on classic coq au vin, with the duck replacing the chicken. The following three recipes were provided by Maple Leaf Farms, producers of a whole line of fully cooked and ready-to-cook duck products, and were tested using their products. Serves 4 INGREDIENTS 6 duckling legs, trimmed of excess fat and seasoned with salt and pepper 4 slices bacon, diced 10 ounces pearl onions, stemmed and skinned 12 ounces Crimini or Golden Italian mushrooms, quartered 1 medium onion, diced 1 large carrot, diced 1 large celery stalk, diced 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 teaspoon dried thyme 2 bay leaves 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour ¼ cup brandy 1 bottle Chardonnay 2 tablespoons fresh Italian parsley, chopped PREPARATION Preheat oven to 325º F. In a Dutch oven or a large straight-sided skillet with tight fitting lid, brown bacon. Remove and drain, discard the fat, and reserve bacon. Brown duckling legs over medium heat for 20 minutes or until well browned. Remove and reserve. Remove all but 2 tablespoons of fat, reserving 1 tablespoon. Add pearl onions and lightly brown over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and cook until dry. Remove and reserve. Add reserved tablespoon of duck fat and sauté diced onions, carrot, celery and garlic until onion is translucent. Add tomato paste, bay leaf and thyme, and cook 4-5 minutes, stirring often. Add flour and cook 3-4 minutes more. Add brandy and stir to incorporate. Add wine ½ cup at a time, stirring well and simmering before each addition. Add reserved bacon and duck legs. Cover and place in oven for 1½ hours or until tender. Remove from oven. Skim any fat that has risen to the surface. Season the duck with salt and pepper. Serve with roasted garlic mashed potatoes or soft polenta. Top with parsley. Duck and Almond Salad Serves 4 INGREDIENTS 1½ cups cooked duck leg, pulled apart and chopped ½ cup diced celery 1 tablespoon tarragon ⅓ cup golden raisins ½ cup slivered toasted almonds ½ teaspoon dry mustard ⅛ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon pepper ½ cup sour cream 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar ½ cup mayonnaise PREPARATION See package for preparing Maple Leaf Farms Duck Leg Quarters. Cool cooked duck legs and remove as much of the skin as possible, then pull the meat off the bone and chop. Combine tarragon vinegar and tarragon together in a sauté pan and reduce until almost dry. Mix sour cream and mayonnaise together with the dry mustard, salt and pepper. Pour over the tarragon reduction and mix in well. Add the duck and the rest of the ingredients. Toss until coated. Refrigerate until chilled. Sweet and Spicy Sauce for Roasted Duck Serves 4, approximately INGREDIENTS 1 red pepper, chopped ½ cup sugar ¾ cup rice wine vinegar ¼ teaspoon cornstarch ¼ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper 1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro PREPARATION Combine red pepper, sugar, vinegar, cornstarch and salt in a medium saucepan. Bring ingredients to a boil. Simmer for 5-7 minutes or until pepper is tender. Let cool. Puree in a blender. Mix in red pepper flakes and cilantro. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
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