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Essentially, humans are divided into two camps — those who like anchovies and those who don’t. For the latter group, it is no doubt true that their experience is based on inferior brands whose taste is very fishy and salty and not at all pleasant. These are the kind of anchovies that for generations have elicited the cry of “hold the anchovies.” For those who don’t have the prejudice against these tasty little fishes, anchovies can add immeasurably to recipes of all kinds from all types of cuisine, from simple antipasto to elaborate cooked dishes. More than simply adding saltiness to a dish, anchovies bring piquancy and even heighten the flavor of other ingredients in the dish. In restaurants, they are used extensively in sauces, often without anyone even knowing they are there. In the Mediterranean, especially in Spain and Italy, they are eaten as tapas or other types of appetizers, and are extremely versatile.

Anchovies belong to a family of fish called Engraulidae, and specifically, Engraulis encrasicolus. These tiny fishes who move about the oceans in schools of millions are found throughout the world’s seas. However, the ones most commonly used for packing and eating are to be found in the waters of the Mediterranean Sea, the Black Sea and the warmer waters of the eastern Atlantic coasts, approximately from Ireland to the Canary Islands off the coast of Morocco. The use of anchovies in cooking goes back to antiquity. In classical Rome, anchovies were used along with other fish for their precious garum, a fish sauce that closely resembled the fish sauce still made and used in Southeastern Asia today. In fact, Romans rarely if ever used salt in pure form. Whether it was prohibitively expensive or it just didn’t occur to them, it was garum that provided saltiness to their food and was used much as we would use the salt shaker today. In was in roughly this form that the Romans and Greeks flavored their food. Romans took them to Britain and by Elizabethan times in England, it was quite common to have barrels of salted anchovies in the cellars of well-to-do homes and taverns. Even Columbus carried barrels of anchovies as he sailed down the Guadalquivir River when he set out for the New World.

Anchovies are not all small — the larger varieties tend to be used fresh and whole for grilling or other methods, especially in Spain and Portugal. Also, not all anchovies are packed in tins, although most of them are and the industry is huge. In Spain, slightly larger sweet white anchovies, or boquerones, are hand filleted and packed in olive oil and vinegar and are consumed in tapas bars all over the land. Anchovies that are to be packed in tins undergo a singular treatment, one that is akin to the making of fish sauce in Thailand and Vietnam.

After they are caught, the fish are quickly and expertly cleaned and stored in brine. The anchovies are spread out for grading and selection, rinsed in brine again and then fanned out in barrels, with each layer covered in salt. Once the barrels are full, a weight is placed atop the fish to gently press out as much water and fat as possible. These weighted barrels are stored for several months or more in carefully controlled rooms where they are regularly turned and monitored. When they are deemed to be sufficiently cured, they are removed from the barrels, rinsed, rolled up in cloth and placed in a centrifuge to remove even more moisture. Finally, skilled workers remove the skin and bones, divide them into two fillets and carefully pack them into tins one at a time. Next, they are covered with either olive oil, soybean, or sunflower oil and the cans are covered and sealed.

Anchovies have myriad uses in the kitchen, perhaps most famously as a component of a classic Caesar salad dressing. But they can also enliven almost any type of salad dressing, and can be used in soups, stews, sauces, casseroles, sandwiches and of course, much to the horror of many a teenage anchovy-phobe, laid atop pizza. Many people find the whole fillets' flavor too strong but don’t mind anchovy paste as an ingredient in a dish. The paste form of anchovies actually comes from a long time ago. The fillets tend to fall apart when using them. so by grinding the fish into paste in a mortar and pestle (or today in a food processor) either alone or with other ingredients, nothing went to waste.

No matter what form of anchovies you prefer, keep a good selection in the store and use them regularly in your prepared foods. Feature them in recipes that are handed out to shoppers and encourage consumers to use them. For those who would cry out to have the anchovies held back, chances are they would come to like them if they were properly introduced to good-quality anchovies in the hands of an adept chef. Truly, they are one of the most versatile, inexpensive and flavorful ingredients that one could have in their pantry today. There is a reason they have come down to us from ancient times. Once again, those Romans really knew what they were doing.

RECIPES
This traditional Spanish tapa is from César: Recipes From a Tapas Bar (Ten Speed Press) and is a delicious and simple way to enjoy these sweet anchovies from Spain.

Montaditos with Boquerones and Olives Relish
INGREDIENTS
Olive Relish:
1½ cups picholine olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
¾ teaspoon finely chopped salt-packed capers
¼ teaspoon dried red chile flakes
½ teaspoon finely chopped garlic
¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Grated zest and juice of 1 orange
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 baguette
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley
Boquerones

PREPARATION
To make the relish, thoroughly mix together all of the ingredients in a medium bowl.

To assemble, cut the baguette on the diagonal into ¼-inch-thick slices. Spread each slice with the relish, then top with a few leaves of parsley and an anchovy fillet.

This idea is adapted from one made by Jacques Pepin. It’s great over poached chicken breasts or in sandwiches. It’s a snap to make in a food processor.

Tuna and Anchovy Spread
INGREDIENTS
1 can of good-quality tuna packed in olive oil
1 can of good-quality anchovies
Freshly squeezed lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

PREPARATION
Place the tuna with its oil and the anchovies in a food processor. Add the juice from a half a lemon, season with salt and pepper and blend to a smooth paste. Add more lemon juice as needed so it’s not too dry. When using, garnish with capers.

Serving suggestion: Place poached chicken breasts on a bed of arugula. Top each piece with the tuna/anchovy spread. Top with capers.

This recipe is adapted from a wonderful series of culinary guides published by American Roland Food Corporation, producers of the Roland brand of anchovies. They have been grading and selecting anchovies for over 60 years for both foodservice and retail.

Lamb with Anchovies
INGREDIENTS
For the anchovy crust:
3½ cups dried bread crumbs
½ cup anchovies, flat fillets
1 cup capers
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 garlic cloves, peeled
¼ cup hot pepper sauce
2 bunches flat-leafed parsley, picked and cleaned
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary
1 rack of lamb
7 tablespoons honey Dijon mustard

PREPARATION
To prepare anchovy crust, combine all the ingredients in a food processor, pulsing until fine. Set aside.

Roast rack of lamb, unseasoned, in usual manner in a very hot oven.

Within the last 5 to 10 minutes of roasting, remove the lamb and brush on the mustard, adjusting quantity as needed. Then smooth on the anchovy mixture.

Finish roasting, let set for a few minutes and serve.