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Recently, while dining out in a fine, white tablecloth restaurant in San Francisco, I overheard a server tell a guest — in response to her query — that balsamic vinegar is sweet red wine vinegar made from raisins and aged for several years. Since I am disinclined to make scenes in public places or to contradict people in their place of business, and mostly because no one asked me, I sat silently rolling my eyes and thinking that the guest would likely tell everyone she knew in order to show off her newfound, though erroneous knowledge. I will instead air my rant within these pages in an attempt to ward off such nonsense and misinformation in future. So, if you are an expert on balsamic vinegar, bear with me as I take a close look at one of the most famous, most glorious, and surely most misunderstood elixir the world has ever known.

Vinegar by Any Other Name . . .
Balsamic vinegar really denotes a category of products rather than an individual item. In fact, there are actually three or even four levels of balsamic vinegar worth considering, and although they all have their roots in the sweet juice of the Trebbiano grape among others, they are made differently, and the ultimate quality and usage vary greatly. I hasten to point out that though they are indeed on the sweet side, none of the following are made from raisins. No doubt that hapless server was thinking of certain wines that are made by first allowing the grapes to slightly wither on the vine, thereby concentrating the sugars, typically to make dessert wines. No such thing happens in the making of balsamic vinegar. Rather, the flavor and sweetness of this wondrous condiment derives solely from the grape must, the process whereby it is rendered into vinegar, and ultimately the wooden barrels in which it is aged.

In the beginning, there was aceto balsamico tradizionale, the top tier of our balsamic pyramid, a sublime, unctuous condiment that represents one of the greatest examples of nature and human innovation working in tandem. For centuries, this condiment was aged in attics in and around the town of Modena in Emilia-Romagna in north-central Italy, and was little known outside of the area until well into the 20th century. Typically, aceto balsamico was used within the family, occasionally sold to others or given as gifts to relatives or dignitaries. Because of the time involved in creating the authentic product, it was not originally pursued as a big business venture. Even today, many of the best producers have other careers and only make balsamic vinegar for their own use, to set aside for their children, and hopefully to augment their retirement in later years. One vinegar-maker I visited said he has put up barrels at the birth of each of his children to be enjoyed when that child is full-grown.

For our look at traditional balsamic vinegars, we turned to the Academia Barilla, an international center dedicated to Italian gastronomic culture. Born under the auspices of the Barilla pasta brand, the Academia selects and distributes the best of the best of Italian food products, offers culinary courses and services, and promotes the appreciation of Italian food and culture worldwide. They represent three very fine levels of balsamic vinegar: Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, Balsamic Must, and Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, or aceto balsamico tradizionale.

To make their traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena, the juice is obtained exclusively from noble Trebbiano de Spagna and Lambrusco grapes that are first pressed and then cooked in large vats over direct fire. During this initial cooking, the must is reduced by as much as 45 percent, resulting in a thick, syrupy, viscous liquid. Next, fermentation takes place in which the aceto bacteria are added to the must, often in the form of older aged balsamic vinegar, much in the same way bread bakers add sourdough from the previous day's batch to get things rolling. Fermentation occurs in stainless steel vats and then later in huge wooden barrels where, as it gradually goes through its metabolic change, it begins to take on a certain amount of flavor and color from the wood. After the initial aging period, which can last for several years, it begins the singular maturing process that sets it apart from virtually all other vinegars.

The young vinegar is placed in what is known as an acetaia or batteria, a set of smaller barrels made from several different woods, progressing gradually downward in size. The woods used vary with manufacturers but usually include oak (at the beginning and end), cherry, acacia, chestnut, juniper, mulberry, and walnut. The barrels are filled only three-quarters full to allow the vinegar room to breathe and age properly. As the liquid evaporates over time, the smallest barrel is topped off with vinegar from the next size up; that barrel in turn is replenished from the next size up, and so on. Finally, the largest barrel is topped off with new vinegar. In time, when it is deemed ready, only vinegar from the smallest barrel is taken to be bottled, and thus will have spent time in each of the woods in a continual mixing of the old and the new. This process can take many years, even decades for the truly great versions.

Finally, in order to be labeled as aceto balsamico tradizionale, the vinegar must be judged and approved by the consortium that governs the production of balsamic vinegar. The consortium dictates whether or not it can be sold at all, and then it must be in a consortium-approved bottle that bears a seal attesting to its authenticity. You can see that this is not a business to be entered into as a get-rich scheme. The people who make true balsamic vinegar are dedicated to an ideal that seldom makes them rich, but enhances their lives in a far richer way than mere money. This type of balsamic vinegar is used in drops — partially because of the price and mostly because it is so flavorful that only drops are needed.

The secondary tier of balsamic vinegar is less expensive due mainly to the fact that it has not gone through decades of aging. Some are made by taking the young (four- to five-year-old) balsamic vinegar and adding a portion of old traditional balsamic, aging it a few years further, and then bottling at a fraction of the price of tradizionale. This type can vary in quality, flavor and the length of time in which it is aged. At the Academia Barilla, they offer Balsamic Must, made from aged grape must from Trebbiano and Sangiovese grapes, and aged for eight years in small oak, cherry, and chestnut barrels. While not possessing the deep, intense flavor of the tradizionale, it nevertheless has a rich flavor and a thick, syrup-like consistency. Beyond that is their Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, aged three years in oak and cherry casks. Unlike many balsamic vinegars at this level, no sugar is added to enhance the natural sweetness of the cooked must from Trebbiano de Spagna grapes. This vinegar is tangy and sweet and can be used in all sorts of applications, from vinaigrettes to marinades.

There also exists another type of "balsamic vinegar" that is simply red wine vinegar (real balsamic vinegar is actually made from white grapes and starts out clear) to which caramel coloring, sugar and sometimes a bit of aged balsamic vinegar are added. It is seldom aged for any considerable amount of time and it is priced accordingly. One is better off buying good-quality balsamic vinegar from an established house because the difference in price between this and the next tier is negligible. Furthermore, for the sake of authenticity, stick with balsamic vinegar that comes from Modena and, above all, taste everything until you find the one you like best.

Surely no other food product has experienced such a meteoric rise to culinary superstardom as balsamic vinegar. The product's staying power is derived from the fact that it tastes so good and because it is so versatile in the kitchen and at the table. Although the procedure and the varying levels of flavor continue to be confusing to consumers, the more you educate yourself about this unique product, the more you can help them understand. A good selection of balsamic vinegar these days, like fine olive oil, has become something of a yardstick of quality and expertise for retailers across the country. Make sure you measure up by knowing your balsamic vinegar and investing in a fine selection. And like the server in that restaurant, if you aren't sure, don't make it up. You'll be doing a disservice to everyone involved.

If you would like to comment or send us your feedback, please send e-mail to jmellgren@sbcglobal.net.

Which to Use?
Naturally, all of these different vinegars are used in differing applications, making it sensible to have more than one variety in the kitchen (a fact that should always be noted in shelf signage and promotional material). Here is a brief look at some of the best uses for balsamic vinegar.
• Use young balsamics or balsamic must for salad dressings (whisk together one part vinegar to two or three parts olive oil, depending on your taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper; fresh herbs optional). This is also good for dressing cooked vegetables, grain salads and tomato salads.
• Drizzle balsamic vinegar on steamed vegetables and boiled potatoes to add flavor.
• Finish off a cooked steak with a few drops of balsamic vinegar.
• Spread out slices of fresh mozzarella, tomatoes and basil on a platter. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
• Make a simple warm potato salad by slicing boiled new potatoes in half and laying them on a platter. Drizzle and toss with olive oil and balsamic vinegar and top with chopped parsley.
• Use balsamic vinegar in a sandwich with fresh goat cheese, roasted red peppers and grilled portobello mushrooms.
• Add a few drops of aceto balsamico tradizionale on chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano as an appetizer, or on fresh strawberries for dessert.
• Enliven soup with a last-minute addition of a few drops of tradizionale as you are about to serve.
• Use young, inexpensive balsamic vinegar in marinades for salmon, steaks, London broil, chicken and other meats.

What's in a Name?
Of the three countries in Europe that are arguably best-known for the production of vinegar, France (vinaigre) and Spain (vinagre) take the word from the Latin vinum acer, meaning "sour wine," which is exactly what vinegar is after the aceto bacteria converts the alcohol in wine into acetic acid. The Italians, however, derive their word for vinegar from the bacteria itself, hence aceto (pronounced ah-CHAY-to). In the case of aceto balsamico, the nomenclature is accurate because, unlike most forms of vinegar, balsamic vinegar never really becomes wine. True, the grape juice goes through an initial fermentation, but not to the point that anyone would consume it as a beverage. Instead, the acetobacters quickly take the cooked grape must into the realm of acetic acid, essentially skipping the wine stage.