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Jun 01, 2007

June 2007: Ingredients & Implements: Foie Gras and Specialty Seafood Tools

PrintJune 2007: Ingredients & Implements: Foie Gras and Specialty Seafood Tools  

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Foie Gras
Foie Gras is the liver of the duck or goose that has been fattened by means of force-feeding. The name actually means "fatty liver" in French. Though thought to be French in origin, and the name is certainly French, the process of overfeeding water birds to produce a fatty liver and a foie gras-type substance has been in practice for thousands of years.

It is believed that the first types of foie gras may have been made in Egypt where Egyptians noticed the rich taste of the livers of migrating geese, which stopped in the Nile region to eat large amounts of figs before continuing their migration north. To reproduce this taste, they began force-feeding domesticated geese with figs.

From the Egyptians, this process spread to the Greeks and then the Romans, although how the tradition spread to Europe is somewhat in dispute. Some culinary historians believe that Gallic peasants preserved the method after the fall of the Roman Empire. Yet others believe that the Jews residing in Israel under Roman occupation may have used the method.

The livers used for foie gras in the U.S. are typically from a Moulard duck, which is a cross between a Muscovy and a Peking duck. Ducks or geese raised to produce foie gras have been induced to eat greater amounts of food, particularly corn, without excessive exercise in order to naturally increase the size of their liver, which commonly becomes three to four pounds in size.

Once the liver is removed, it is often soaked in a solution of wine, water and milk to prepare it to be consumed. It is then marinated again in a blend of seasonings with wine (usually Armagnac, Madeira or Port wine) and baked, being careful not to let it shrink significantly while being cooked.

Types of Foie Gras
Foie gras is produced from the fatty liver of a goose or a duck. Which is best depends partly on individual preference.

Goose
Goose foie gras has a very smooth and creamy silk-like texture. Its flavor is rich, subtle and sophisticated. However, it is more expensive and less available than duck foie gras.

Duck
Duck foie gras has a more rustic texture and flavor, and an earthier and more pronounced taste. It also has a stronger aroma. Best for hot preparations.

Country of Origin
Foie gras is produced in a number of countries including Hungary, the U.S. and Canada, but France is generally regarded as producing the best quality. It has the longest tradition of foie gras production, and is the main producer and consumer of this product. The main production area in France is the southwest, in particular the region of Gascony. In America, one of the earliest regions to produce foie gras was the Hudson Valley of New York.


Foie Gras by Preparation
Foie Gras Entier
Whole liver of duck (canard) or goose (oie), cooked and preserved, usually in a block, and containing no extra additives or mixes.

Bloc of Foie Gras
Smaller pieces of duck or goose foie gras whipped and condensed together into a block. A block of cooked foie gras is made up of smaller pieces which have been pressed together. It may contain water and seasoning but must be a minimum of 98 percent foie gras. The better grades are labeled "bloc de foie gras avec morceaux," which is "block of foie gras with pieces of foie gras." Traditional recipes may include the addition of truffles.

Mousse of Foie Gras
Pieces of foie gras ground or pureed together into a smooth preparation whipped into a mousse. May contain other items such as water or crème fraîche, but must be minimum 50 percent foie gras.

Pate de Foie Gras
Usually foie gras combined with other meat products, like pork, duck or veal. The content of foie gras is less than other products. It is a smooth, consistent spread-like block, which is often served with crackers or toast.

Semi-Cooked Pasteurized Foie Gras or Micuit
This foie gras is partially cooked and preserved in order to retain as much of the original consistency, texture, and flavor as possible.

Fully Cooked Foie Gras
The most traditional way to prepare foie gras, fully cooked foie gras is preserved in its own fat and sterilized; this type of foie gras will be stored in a cool dark place for a long period of time. Often packaged in tubes or a classic farm-style jar.

Specialty Seafood Tools
Seafood preparation is easier when you use specialized tools. There are implements that are drawn over fish skin to remove those pesky scales; little nippers that can easily lift the shells off shrimp while removing the black vein; crackers that crack the claws of lobster and crab; and shellfish knives that pry open the most stubborn of creatures.

Whatever the task at hand, seafood tools made of stainless steel and noncorrosive materials are best (plastic, if sturdy enough, can be used for some high-quality tools). While you might not use specialty seafood tools on a daily basis, investing in these handy helpers will help make seafood preparation easier and less time-consuming. The following are the essential tools every well-stocked kitchen should have.

Lobster and Crab Cracker: Use this tool to break open lobster or crab shells without destroying the edible insides. Look for crackers that are wide enough to crack the claw and which provide a firm grip on the slippery joints above the claw.

Fish Bone Tweezers: A perfect seafood meal can be ruined when you end up "fishing" out bones between bites. Fish bone tweezers will help quickly and easily remove pesky bones and such from whole fish. These are best suited for smaller fillets.

Fish Bone Pliers: Large fillets such as salmon often have hidden rows of bones. Knives can be too crude to extract them and tweezers do not have the gripping power to cope with large bones. Tapered, finely tooled stainless steel pliers are just right for the job. Strong yet precise, a good pair of fish bone pliers should have a serrated jaw to provide a good grip and enough leverage for a solid yank.

Shrimp Deveiner: Anyone who has cooked fresh shrimp knows that peeling and deveining is extremely time-consuming. Usually constructed of sturdy plastic, a shrimp deveiner permits easy removal of the shell and vein in just seconds with one swift motion.

Fish Scaler: The serrated edges of these tools are useful for scraping off the pesky scales of a fish.

Shellfish Knives: Manufacturers have designed knives to open oysters, clams, scallops and hard-shell crabs. A good shellfish knife will have two distinct features: rigidity and shortness. The former provides the leverage needed to pry open the resilient creature, while the latter allows the close contact needed to open shellfish carefully. There are, however, variations on the theme: some blades have a tapered rather than rounded tip; some have a cutting edge while others are dull; and some, like the crab knife, feature a centered hole to separate flesh from cartilage on a crab leg.

Oyster Glove: Constructed from stainless steel mesh, an oyster glove offers protection from your oyster knife, which can easily slip in the shucking process. Designed to fit either hand, the mesh glove is intended for use with oysters but would be suitable for any operation that requires hand protection — such as boning or filleting meat or fish, or even slicing bagels.

Seafood Forks and Spoons: Usually made of stainless steel, most seafood forks feature a narrow fork to get inside the shellfish and a spoon to dish out the meat. Also good for clams and oysters on the half shell, crab, and escargot.

Source: The New Cooks' Catalogue







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