Top Stories » Special Features » Foods

Emiglia-Romagna and Rome might be the more popular Italian food destinations. And Piemonte or Tuscany may be better known for their wines. But Trentino offers everything delectable from Apples to Zweigelt. With pride and of high quality.

The two-hour-long train ride from Milano made for a slow, smooth introduction to the facts and beauties of Trentino: This northeasternmost corner of Italy bordering Austria consists of a few Roman towns including the capital Trento, picturesque villages, a lot of mountains and, thus, ski resorts. It is a rural region not only famous for its apples but also for its quietness and moderation. Oh, and for its wines and mushrooms and cheeses and often smoky cuisine. But let's go in order.

Leaving the big city craziness mile by plodding mile, I arrived in Trento like I had gently been tucked into a cozy bed. I was relaxed and ready for a sweet dream. Which started right away when I opened the regional paper and, while sipping a cappuccino, realized how many food-related events were going to take place this one upcoming weekend alone: There was an organic trade fair and a show called "Aromas, Flavors, Traditions." There was a market festival and a bread and strudel market, a fungus feast, and a get-together of the local Slow Food Chapter. Had I just discovered the food capital of my dream world?

The following days in rustic Trentino answered the question clearly and in a positive way. There was food everywhere, and it was well-produced and well-prepared food at all times. The joy started in the morning when I tasted simply the best hazelnut spread I had ever eaten in my life (growing up in Europe, I had eaten a good share of it…). It came from Sottobosco Paoli, a really small producer of jellies, compotes, nectars, honeys, candies and preserves of fruit, nuts and vegetables exclusively from the region. There are neither preservatives nor artificial flavors or colors used in this small family-owned factory. The proprietor started this business after a career as a chef. His target was to bring out the flavors and treasures of the region's abundance of fruits and vegetables in the most natural, pure and best-tasting way. The thick, velvety smooth nectars are a translation of his philosophy. How else would you interpret a sip that makes one believe he or she had just bitten into a whole handful of perfectly ripe raspberries at once?

Driving though the country, hills up and hills down, stopping at fruit stands and in small bars, I wasn't surprised to learn that there was another jelly producer around. The only surprise was where Menz & Gasser are located and how huge the operation is. The ultramodern factory occupies what seems to be the only flat space in the tiny village of Novaledo. Mysteriously burnt down less than 10 years ago, the operation was rebuilt and restructured in the most high-tech way possible. Every little detail here makes sense. The flow of production steps goes on high speed; quality control and avoiding of hazards happen after every single step; waste in every segment is kept down to a minimum. One of the machines spits out 7000 pounds of pureed fruits per hour. Another one checks that the lids are on properly. Only the definition of products, it seems, is man-made. Besides all classic marmalades and jellies, Menz & Gasser also covers the market with trendy low-sugar products, mini portion packages, products for foodservice and more.

Azienda Agricola Biologica Debiasi Stefano, a one-man company just outside of Rovereto, literally uses the organic vegetables from Stefano's front yard -- the backyard is nothing but a steep rocky mountain -- to manufacture his spreads, purees, sottoli and sauces. No ingredient has been grown more than three miles away from the factory. Stefano and his mother, plus -- depending on the height of the piles of tomatoes, peppers, onions, zucchetti, eggplants and other vegetables -- between one and three nieces work in the three-garage-sized place. Here, everything is handmade. Including the labels of the cute glass jars. The combinations sound down-to-earth and not spectacular. But the flavors are clean and pure, and just remind one of this beautiful front yard.

Not too far from Stefano's operation, in Pergine, there's a little co-op making use of all the forests, damp river sides and, yes, backyards of the region. L'Oro della Montagna works with nothing but fungi. But what an array of mushrooms and related products they put out. Reading through the selection and price list turns out to be a huge misunderstanding. Dried Porcini, Whole Finferli or Mixed Forest Mushrooms seem to be a readily available product. Yet not at the quality standard L'Oro guarantees at all times: It is the only mushroom-providing and processing company of Trentino that exclusively hand-picks and hand-packs.

Around all these meadows and forests and lovely farmers, naturally cows have to thrive, too. Cheese has been made in Trentino since the time between World Wars I and II. Monte Trentini is one of the biggest milk collectors and cheese producers here. Besides the classical Montasio, Asiago and Vezzano, they started to bring out novelties like aged goat milk cheeses or fresh sheep and goat milk wheels. The outcome proves they got it right: The little dairy in the middle of nowhere is busy all afternoon long.

Felicetti's story is different and very similar at the same time. Just another Trentino food adventure, maybe? Well, this pasta company just celebrated its 100th anniversary. Guests who planned to attend yet never had been there definitely needed one of those hip GPS systems. Or another tour guide, if we had at the time.

Felicetti produces fresh and dry, traditional, organic and very fancy pasta out of a century-old establishment. Thanks to the son of the founder, the company has also launched several lines of more contemporary pastas. Think whole-grain, durum wheat, gluten-free, salt-free, etc., with more introductions to follow. Watch this space …

On my slow train ride back to big-city life -- toward Milano and thence home -- all the gorgeous restaurant meals I had had came back to my mind. All the veal cheeks I had eaten in this time. All the lush speck. All the smoked fish and meats. And, of course, the beautiful Pinot Grigio von Ruländer, the Granato, all the Lagreins and Teroldegos I had tasted.

I considered -- and seriously, at that -- getting off at the next station and simply taking a train back. Trentino has so much to offer. And so many of the very best foods!

Buonissimo … Very Good
His father Tommaso Martini was the founder of the very first supermarket chain in Italy, Supermercato, decades ago. The son, Davide, has inherited his father's blood plus some experience. He has a degree in business. And two years ago, he launched Buonissimo.

This gourmet store concept is based on regional and local purveyors. Each of the three existing markets chooses and buys its own items as long as they fit under the consciousness rule (no modified, processed or poisoned products, no "foreign" products). The idea is to promote small local companies who on their own would never make it "out into the big world." "This way, we stay unique as a store and guarantee the loyalty of the producer," says Davide Martini. "Who would or could treat the little ones better than we do?"

Davide is constantly on the lookout for more and new and better purveyors, and wants to quadruple his regime in the region within the next two years. He is currently negotiating a premium space in Manhattan. His target and hope is to promote the true flavors of his homeland across America. So, we should all soon be able to taste pasta from Felicetti, ice cream and fine chocolates from Bologna, or dried mushrooms from L'Oro della Montagna.

Swiss-born journalist-turned-cheesemonger Caroline Hostettler is co-owner of 55 Degrees -- Cool Wine and Cheese in Fort Myers, Fla. She is also a member of The Gourmet Retailer's Retailer Advisory Board. Read all about her innovative retail concept at http://www.gourmetretailer.com/gourmetretailer/content_display/category-features/retailer-profiles/e3ibabe9c0be80d9c3c2cc29c29a21fa6b5?imw=Y

Comments? mmoran@gourmetretailer.com