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It could be said that what beef cattle are to America, pigs are to most of Europe. Just as beef and bison made it possible for pioneers to settle the vast open spaces of the American West, pigs were largely responsible for enabling ancient Europeans to settle down, plant crops, and establish communities. Pigs, however, are far more versatile than cattle, easier to manage, take up much less land, and can thrive in terrain upon which cattle would starve. Like goats, pigs are very efficient at rooting out food in meager surroundings, but are less discriminating about what they eat. But while beef was mostly consumed as fresh meat or dried into various forms of jerky, pork was rarely consumed fresh, but rather transformed into an astonishing array of preserved meats that varied enormously depending on the region, the culture, and the methods employed to cure the meat. The king of pork products is ham, with methods varying from the sunny Mediterranean region to the high Alpine areas to the colder northern regions. Bridging the gap, however, between hams of the south and those of the north is one of the most succulent of all, Speck Alto Adige PGI (Protected Geographical Indication).

A Taste of Tradition
The region of the Alto Adige, sometimes known as South Tyrol because it lies on the southern side of the Austrian and Swiss Alps, is full of breathtaking landscapes, verdant pastures, and cool, pristine air. It’s the perfect environment in which to cure Speck, the name-controlled, geographically protected ham that is traditional in the region. Perhaps because the region identifies more with its Teutonic heritage than with the Italian, Speck more closely resembles the smoky hams of Germany than the prosciutti of Italy. Actually, Speck Alto Adige is milder in flavor than its Black Forest cousin and more pronounced than the air-cured hams of both Italy and Spain. And like all of those hams, Speck is a much loved delicacy of the region and figures greatly in the diet of the people who live there. In fact, a local saying has it that no home is properly outfitted unless it has Speck, bread and wine. Indeed, it is a delicious and satisfying trio, no matter where one’s home happens to be.

Speck, of course, was first produced simply to preserve the meat for the long winters, and it is for this reason that traditionally the pigs are always slaughtered just before Christmas when the onset of colder temperatures help preserve the fresh meat until it is fully cured. Although, with modern refrigeration, production of Speck can now be carried out year-round, the process is still done in individual homes but only in the winter months. In the commercial production of Speck Alto Adige (including the ones exported to the United States), only pork legs that pass rigid criteria are selected for the process. Selection is based on a strict fat to lean ratio, weight, temperature, and proper pH levels in the meat.

First the leg is deboned and trimmed, and a seal is branded into the rind that indicates when the production began and allows for traceability. The thighs then go through a salting and flavoring process that is carried out entirely by hand, and really is the only step in which the producer can add a personal touch. The flavorings that go into the brine include salt, pepper, laurel, rosemary, juniper berry and pimiento, and the formulas are closely guarded secrets that are passed down from generation to generation. Once immersed in the salt and flavoring mix, the hams are left in temperature-controlled rooms for three weeks, and are turned several times to ensure the salt and flavorings are evenly absorbed. The hams are then lightly smoked with low temperatures over prime wood with low resin content. This smoking technique, combined with the fresh, cool Tyrolian breezes, results in hams in which the smoke doesn’t overwhelm the taste of the meat.

Next is the all-important aging process. The hams are hung to mature in well-ventilated, temperature-controlled rooms with humidity of between 60 and 90 percent. The average length of aging time is 22 weeks wherein the hams lose approximately 37 percent of their weight. During this time, an essential mold forms on the surface of the hams. This mold actually contributes to the final flavor and texture of the ham by preventing an overly hard rind and by slightly retarding the curing process so the interior matures evenly and the flavors become nicely balanced. The mold is removed before the hams go to market.

Finally, the hams are inspected by a group of experts from the Instituto Nord Est Qualità (North-East Quality Institute), a highly specialized body that also certifies the hams of San Daniele. Legs that fail to pass the rigid criteria imposed by the official regulations are not allowed to be sold as Speck Alto Adige PGI. The regulators carry out a series of checks that include:
• The initial processing date impressed on the rind and assessment of the aging period;
• Control of the consistency of the product, and piercing to test the smell;
• A measurement of the salt content of the hams, which should never exceed 5 percent;
• Insuring the perfect balance between fatty and lean parts;
• A tasting test.

Although there is a consumer representative on the testing committee, no member is allowed to be a producer of Speck. Once the hams have passed their inspection, they are branded in four different points on the rind using a special iron seal.

There are many ways to enjoy Speck Alto Adige, and one of the best and simplest is to eat it with the delicious crusty bread of the region. But even here there is some controversy as to how best to serve the hams. The first consideration is whether to serve it with or without the crust left on. Unlike many European hams, the infusion of herbs and spices into the rind adds a lot of flavor to the meat, and therefore the locals insist on leaving it on. If you like your ham a bit milder, you can cut some of the rind away before slicing. As to cutting the ham, many people like to slice it thinly as one would with prosciutto or jamón serrano. Again, we go with the locals on this one who recommend the following: cut a slice off the end about a half-inch thick. Cut that piece across into little half-inch strips. Some go even further by then cutting the strips into little cubes. This is a very good way to cut Speck for sampling in the store as well. Speck works well in a variety of recipes, too, from simple salads to hearty main dishes. Speck has always played an important role in the cuisine of the Alto Adige for good reason. It’s a delicious, highly nutritious food that compliments a wide variety of other foods, and should be a key component of your deli case right alongside the other great hams of the world.

The following recipes are adapted from those provided by the Consortium that oversees the manufacturing and marketing of Speck Alto Adige PGI.

Speck Carpaccio
This is one of the simplest and most delicious ways to enjoy Speck.
Serves 4
Divide about one-half pound of arugula between four plates. Arrange about six thin slices of Speck on top of the greens. Over that, shave slices of either Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano, and drizzle the whole thing with good, extra-virgin olive oil.

Asparagus Wrapped with Speck Alto Adige
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
2 pounds asparagus
8-12 thin slices Speck Alto Adige
2-3 ounces unsalted butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 ounces grated grana cheese (Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano)
Basil and lemon wedges for garnish (optional)

PREPARATION
Wash and trim the asparagus and boil them in salted water for 8–10 minutes, or until they are cooked through but still slightly firm. Wrap 4–5 asparagus spears with 2–3 slices Speck. Meanwhile, melt the butter. Arrange the wrapped asparagus in an oven-proof casserole. Pour the butter over them and top with the grated cheese. Bake at 450° for 3–5 minutes, or until the Speck has begun to brown. Season with pepper, and garnish with basil leaves and lemon wedges.

Pappardelle with Speck Alto Adige and Porcini Mushrooms
Serves 4–6
INGREDIENTS
1 pound fresh porcini mushrooms, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 ounces scallions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves removed and chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 ½ cups heavy cream
5 ounces thin slices Speck Alto Adige, coarsely chopped
1 pound pappardelle pasta, preferably homemade
2 ounces grated parmesan cheese

PREPARATION
In a heavy bottom saucepan, brown the mushrooms in the olive oil. Add the scallion and garlic and sauté for another minute. Season with salt and pepper, and then add the cream and thyme. Reduce the sauce for 2–3 minutes over medium heat. Add the Speck and adjust seasoning. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in salted boiling water until al dente. Strain and mix with the Speck and mushroom sauce. Grate parmesan over each individual portion.