Top Stories » Expert Columns » Profiles & Trends

Forget all of those stereotypes you've heard about Germans and German food. Common misconceptions include the idea that all German food is heavy, that the people, who are very large, eat nothing but sausages and sauerkraut every day, and wash them down with copious amounts of beer. The fact is that although all of these German foodstuffs exist, they are balanced by a modern, healthful cuisine and a way of life that we Americans would do well to emulate. Traditional German food certainly still exists and is relished by the German people. It does include sausages (as well as an astonishing array of pork products, both fresh and cured), sauerkraut, potatoes, and absolutely delicious beer, but it must be noted that they are balanced by a modern, sophisticated, lighter fare, and a love of all kinds of ethnic food. As to the size of the German people, they are considered the leanest population in all of Europe and additionally, are quite passionate about exercise and physical activity in general. Germans tend to consume their biggest meal in the middle of the day, eating lighter dishes at night, which no doubt has a lot to do with their good health. The Germans do love meat, especially pork, and among the traditional foods that remain highly popular is authentic Black Forest ham, surely one of the great foods of the entire world, and a valuable addition to any charcuterie section.

Curing the Pig
One can see signs for Black Forest ham in almost every deli and supermarket in America, but unfortunately, most of it has no more relation to either the Schwarzwald ("Black Forest" in German) or the traditional methods of production than does steak-and-kidney pie. Such examples are Black Forest hams in name only and don't come close to the seductively smoky-sweet flavor and velvety texture of the real thing. Several characteristics determine an authentic Black Forest ham, the first of which is that it must be made in the Black Forest region of Bavaria, or Bayern as it is called in German, which is located in southwestern Germany. Currently, only one German company, appropriately named Abraham (although not in German where ham is known as schinken), has gained official USDA approval for its production plant to ship Black Forest ham to the United States. The pigs utilized for the production of Black Forest ham, at least those destined for export to the U.S., are raised in Denmark, the only country in Europe that has USDA-approved farms for the raising of pigs. In other words, any ham that comes to us from Europe is from a pig raised in Denmark, although in each case, they are raised strictly according to the manufacturers' specifications, including the specific breeds.
The traditional method for producing these hams and the way they do it at Abraham is as follows. Once the fresh hams (the hind legs of a mature hog, each weighing between 22 and 40 pounds) arrive at the plant, their appearance and aroma are inspected, and the temperature and pH level are verified to insure that the hams are in peak condition and absolutely fresh. Samples are continually tested both in the company's own lab and by independent laboratories. Next, the hams are salted, a process that can take up to three weeks, depending upon the cut. Salting serves two objectives, both of which really amount to the same thing. The salt retards the growth of any harmful bacteria (at this juncture, the ham is still raw) and simultaneously helps draw off moisture from the flesh (moisture is the breeding ground for bacteria). The hams are chilled to 36° F and rubbed with a salt mixture that contains salt, sugar, juniper berries, black pepper, and coriander. The hams are then stacked in neat, staggered piles, and over the course of the salting period, are restacked four times. During this all-important phase of the curing process, the hams lose up to 30 percent of their moisture and begin to assume the size and shape of the finished hams. Again, samples are tested both in-house and by an independent lab.
Next, the hams are sent to the smoke rooms, a process that distinguishes Black Forest hams from almost any other European dry-cured hams, and adds immeasurably to the hams' flavor, aroma, and texture. After first washing off the remaining salt, the hams are hung by hand in natural brick and stone chambers. In a practice that no doubt harks back to the ham's origins, only real wood chips, either beechwood or pine from the nearby forest, are used for the smoking. The hams remain in the smoking chambers for two weeks, with the chips being renewed three times. After each smoking period, the hams are chilled again to 44° F. Inside the smoking chamber, the temperature never exceeds 82° F; hence, the term "cold smoke," a method also used to make traditional smoked salmon, among other foods. After the hams emerge from the smoking chambers, they are placed into the aging rooms where they hang peacefully for six to nine months. After they are sufficiently aged, the hams that are destined for the U.S market are deboned, and in some cases, presliced, and finally, sent on their way across the Atlantic.

The Stuff of Legends
Black Forest ham is a lovely and important addition to the charcuterie case, providing as it does a balance of flavor with the other hams from Europe and the United States. Black Forest ham may be used in a variety of applications, such as a delicious ham sandwich, salads, omelets, casseroles, or simply eaten as is, sliced thin and served with salad and bread. Perhaps there is no better hors d'oeuvre than a plate of sliced Black Forest ham accompanied by a glass of wine or beer. So flavorful is the ham that it needs nothing else, although it also goes wonderfully with olives, fresh or dried fruit, radishes or other vegetables, salad, and other types of charcuterie.
In terms of merchandising Black Forest hams, all one need do is look to the Black Forest itself and German culture. The Black Forest, rich and dense, beautiful and serene, is the stuff of legends, and has been the inspiration for many of the world's most beloved fairy tales. It was here that little Hansel and Gretel got lost and stumbled upon the ghastly witch and her gingerbread cottage. No doubt, Little Red Riding Hood and a host of others were drawn from the dark depths of the Schwarzwald as well. These are wonderful images to use as a backdrop for a German Foods Promotion in which Black Forest ham can hold a starring role.
Fairy tales aren't your thing? There is plenty more to draw from to accent a German Foods Promotion. Germany has produced great writers, from Goethe to Gunter Grass, philosophers, teachers, scientists, and inventors. Musically, Germany has produced some of the greatest composers, including Brahms, several generations of Straus, and the incomparable operas of Richard Wagner, albeit they are an acquired taste. Besides all of that, German culture and traditions have influenced our own more than perhaps any other ethnic group. From kindergarten to our Christmas traditions to a great deal of the English language, German culture has made an indelible imprint upon America.
The point of all this is to show that in staging a German Foods Promotion, and in particular, in promoting the singular flavor of Black Forest ham, images from Germany will be both immediately identifiable and entertaining. Be sure to sample out Black Forest ham whenever possible to show your customers the enormous difference in quality between the real thing and the countless imitations. Black Forest ham is another in a long list of name-controlled or DOP food products from the European Community that we are fortunate to be able to have in our stores. Celebrate them, and add some heft to your bottom line at the same time. Auf Wiedersehen und guten Appetit!