Top Stories » Expert Columns » Profiles & Trends

It is estimated that before the Europeans arrived on this continent, somewhere between 30 and 70 million bison, or buffalo, roamed the vast central plains from the northernmost Mexican states well up into Canada. They are thought to have traveled in herds ranging from 50 to 500,000 head. Subsequently, they were hunted and slaughtered by white men for sport, amusement, and profit, but mostly, as our history books rarely let on, to deprive the Native Americans of their primary source of food. Up until then, the bison provided an endless supply of sustenance for many of the native tribes, as well as raw materials for clothing, shelter (the hides were used for tepees), and all sorts of tools and implements. Within a relatively short time, the vast herds of the majestic animals were reduced almost to extinction. Estimates say that by the late 1800s, there were fewer than 1,000 bison in all of North America, an ecological devastation representing one of the darkest episodes in our history. As an added affront to the indigenous peoples, the bison were slaughtered mainly for their tongues, humps, and marrow, all of which were considered delicacies, with the rest of the carcasses often left to rot in the open fields.

The true name of these noble creatures is bison (Bison bison), but because they were mistakenly identified by early settlers, the name "buffalo" has been linked to them ever since, and today, the names are considered to be interchangeable. Thanks to conservation efforts that began around the turn of the 20th century, bison herds today number in excess of 350,000, and are growing every year. Therefore, the regal animals are no longer considered an endangered species.

The modern commercial bison business in the United States began during the late 1960s, but didn't really gain much momentum until the late 1980s. Bison meat first became popular in the natural foods arena as people were seeking more sustainable, and arguably healthier, alternatives to red meat. Interest increased in the 1990s as consumers began to take notice of the type of fat in their diets and also as concerns rose over the standard use of growth hormones and antibiotics in large-scale beef production. Restaurant chefs added bison to their menus in many regions of the country, and it has moved from novelty to haut cuisine in a relatively short time. According to New Grass Bison Company of Kansas City, Kan., consumption of bison meat doubled between 2000 and 2004 (carefully managed, commercial bison operations under federal inspection slaughtered 30,000 bison in 2004).

From a nutritional standpoint, bison is much closer to chicken in many ways than to beef. It is very low in fat and calories, and high in iron, protein, Omega 3 fatty acids, and Vitamin E. It is also very low in saturated fats (0.91 g vs. 4.63 g in 90% lean beef). Reader's Digest called bison one of the five super foods for women for its ability to "boost energy and lower weight." Nevertheless, bison is full of flavor and can be substituted for any cut of beef in recipes. However, bison does cook a little differently than beef. Because it doesn't have the marbling of beef (for that reason it is much redder looking than beef when raw), it tends to cook faster and a few tips should be considered. The following advice was provided by New Grass Bison Company:

• Low and slow is the key factor to remember. Cook at lower temperatures, approximately 50 degrees F lower than for beef (medium setting for grilling) and for less time.

• When broiling bison, move the rack away from the heat about a notch lower than for traditional steaks, and check the meat for doneness sooner.

• If you normally cook roast beef at 325°F, cook bison at 275°F. for the same amount of time.

• Ground bison also cooks much faster than ground beef. Again, use a lower temperature for less time. Also, very little shrinkage occurs with ground bison.

Though the low-carb craze has subsided considerably, many Americans have returned to eating meat as a valuable source of protein and energy. Bison, with its low percentage of saturated fats, fits perfectly into this new, healthier slant, and even though fresh bison is becoming increasingly popular, specialty treats made from bison are gaining ground as well. Among the offerings are sausages, hot dogs, jerky, and other meat-based snacks that are low in saturated fats and high in nutritional value. This trend is poised to grow, say the folks at New Grass Bison Company. Citing research from NPG Group, they contend that the meat snacks category ($3 billion) "has retained the growth it experienced during the glory days of the low-carb fad." Furthermore, where meat snack consumers were predominantly men (80%) only five years ago, the percentages have evened out to about 60% men to 40% women. As larger name-brand companies continue to launch new items in the meat snack category, smaller, environmentally-friendly companies like New Grass Bison and The Buffalo Guys will surely grow their selections, as well as co-brand with other companies, such as the new collaboration between New Grass Bison and their Kansas City neighbors, Original Juan Specialty Foods.

As the interest and familiarity with bison meat continues to grow, consumers won't need a home where the buffalo actually roam. They will only have to make it to their local gourmet retailer for the great taste and healthfulness of an American original, bison.


The Ends of the Earth
Moving to Nebraska in the summer of 1969 from the Chicago suburbs, my brother and I already felt as though we had been exiled to the ends of the earth. My first sighting of a bison herd that summer from my backyard at the east end of town only confirmed the horror of that suspicion. Years later, I would recount the story with pride, but to a newly-transplanted 13 year old. Standing in the oppressive heat and humidity of a Nebraska August as thousands of grasshoppers hopped about and occasionally crunched under my foot or leapt up my pant leg, it was merely another reminder that I was far away from my friends, girls, rock-n-roll, and civilization itself. Throughout the years, I became familiar with buffalo meat, as it was always called then, as well as "beefalo," an experiment in cross-breeding that I believe has all but disappeared. It was sold in our supermarkets and served in our restaurants and at backyard barbecues. Later, living in New York, I seldom saw it or thought about it, and I didn't see it turn up commercially until I began covering the Natural Products Expo for this magazine. As I sampled it in the aisles of that show, I was quickly reminded of how full flavored it is and eating that piece of bison steak triggered my taste memory, filling me with thoughts of Nebraska, marauding grasshoppers, and a lonely summer spent watching the buffalo herd as time stood still.

For more information on bison meat's history, production, and nutritional value, as well as descriptions of available products, visit the following web sites:
www.newgrassbison.com
www.thebuffaloguys.com

---

Bison Blue Cheese Burger
Makes 6 patties
This recipe was provided by The New Grass Bison Company, based in Kansas City, Kan. They produce a full line of bison products, including fresh meat, cured products and bison snacks. The recipe was created by Kathy Cary, owner of Lilly's in Louisville, Ky.

Ingredients
1½ pounds ground bison
2 tablespoons mustard
2 tablespoons roasted, chopped shallots and garlic
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Splash of extra-virgin olive oil
Favorite mild, creamy blue cheese
6 hamburger buns
2 red onions, sliced
2 bulbs of fennel, sliced

Preparation
Combine all the ingredients except the blue cheese and mix well. Form six patties, adding a teaspoon of blue cheese to the center of each patty. Grill to desired doneness.

For the garnish, drizzle the onion slices with olive oil and vinegar and grill until tender.

Sauté the sliced fennel until tender. Toss onions and fennel together and place on the burgers.

---

Mustard Short Ribs
This recipe was provided by The Buffalo Guys of Elk Mountain, Wyo.,, producers of all sorts of buffalo products. You can substitute your favorite BBQ sauce for the mustard marinade for equally delicious results.

Ingredients
4 pounds bison ribs
1/3 cup mustard
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
2 cloves crushed garlic
4 medium onions, sliced

Preparation
Place ribs in a shallow baking dish. Mix together the mustard, sugar, lemon juice and garlic, and season with salt and pepper. Pour mixture over the ribs and top with the sliced onions. Cover and refrigerate, turning ribs occasionally, for four to 24 hours, the longer the better.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Place ribs with the marinade and onions in a Dutch oven or other large oven-proof baking dish. Cook for about two hours. Check for tenderness; if longer cooking is necessary, cook for 10-minute intervals until tender.

(Note: this dish can also be done in a slow-cooker for 8 to 10 hours on low.)