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Summertime and the livin’ is easy. Meals tend to be on the lighter side, less about cooking than about assembling food. Many people, especially those who live in very hot, summer climates, turn to refreshing salads and cold soups, as well as lots of fresh, juicy fruits. But man — and woman — cannot live by salads alone no matter how hot and sticky the weather might be. When it comes to the protein of choice for summer dining, more often than not, skinless chicken comes into the discussion. While this might be a perfectly healthy and light choice, it doesn’t exactly inspire anyone who cares about flavor and good food. Even fresh seafood can often use a little help. For all sorts of summertime meal solutions, the place to turn to is often the deli counter of your store.

Recently, I overheard two people talking at a deli counter, and one was eschewing the selection of cured meats, saying she didn’t want to eat all that fat. I thought, “There goes another boring chicken dinner because of misguided ideas about nutrition.” It occurred to me that there was no reason anyone should avoid a selection of charcuterie on the grounds of it being unhealthy. On the contrary, as far as eating meat goes, cured meats can absolutely be part of a well-rounded healthy diet. Eating salami of various kinds, hams such as those from the Black Forest of Germany, the southern mountains of Spain, or from several regions of Italy can actually be quite refreshing, especially when accompanied by cool, fresh fruit.

Going for the Cure
The process of curing meats is an ancient one, techniques for which have evolved over centuries, long before there was any kind of refrigeration. Transforming raw meat into a cured, storable food, one that could also be carried along on long journeys, was one of the defining stages of our own evolution, from hunter-gatherers to settling into communities. Like the making of cheese or wine, many of the techniques for curing meat were no doubt discovered quite by accident. Once it was figured out, however, it opened up a whole new world to the ancient people throughout the Old World. In spite of modern refrigeration today, preservation is still a main reason for curing meats, although for most consumers, it is mostly about flavor and tradition.

The curing process also brings about many physical changes in the meat, concentrating flavors and, in many cases, altering the nature of the fat. In many hams, for instance, especially the famed jamón ibérico, the diet of the pigs and the unique curing process helps transform the fat into predominately monounsaturated. Studies show that pork fat in general is much healthier for us than previously imagined, more akin to olive oil than to butter. Even pure lard is thought to be much more heart-friendly than butter or the saturated fat of red meat. The methods for raising the animals have improved as well. In her outstanding book, Prosciutto, Pancetta, Salame (Ten Speed Press), Pamela Sheldon Johns says, “More attention is now being paid to the way the animals are raised. In some cases, the diets are augmented with the kind of food they would have eaten in the past, such as acorns and chestnuts. Care is taken to be sure that the animals are not stressed in their environment; that they have enough space; and that, when transported, the conditions are well ventilated and of a reasonable temperature. We are beginning to discover that integrity of flavor and the impact on human nutrition in the meats, as well as disease resistance and abundant reproduction in the animals, can be encouraged with good handling. The best results come from producers where these factors are considered, excessive daily growth is not encouraged, and growth hormones are not used.”

Johns is talking here about producers in Italy, but the same trend is evolving in the United States and other countries as well, making the overall quality and nutritional value of cured meats — imported and domestic — very high indeed. Because most of these cured meats require no cooking, they can be a great source of protein, iron and other nutrients without having to bear the heat of the kitchen stove or oven in the sweltering days of summer. Plus, the ways in which one can enjoy these meats are many. Most can simply be served sliced on a platter, drizzled with a little extra virgin olive oil or not, and accompanied by dressed olives, cornichons, fresh or dried fruits, nuts, cheese, and crusty bread. They are also great for sandwiches — hot or cold — and because they are generally so flavorful, one or two slices of meat can be sufficient.

In his seminal book, Foods of Italy, Giuliano Bugialli gives a marvelous and simple recipe for serving bresaola, the lean, air-dried beef from Lombardy, in which fresh goat cheese is blended with olive oil, salt and pepper, and then rolled up inside thin slices of bresaola and served atop leaves of Boston lettuce with lemon slices. These can be made ahead of time and make a splendid afternoon snack with some cool red or rosé wine. Of course, the quintessential pairing for air-cured hams is with very ripe fruit, especially figs or melons, versions of which are available in just about every Italian trattoria and Spanish tapas bar. Cured meats are also great for making quick and easy pasta dishes simply by adding bits of ham, salami, or other meats to cooked pasta with some olive oil or a bit of cream and seasoning. People throughout Europe know that having cured meats on hand means that a quick, impromptu meal is never far away, either for the family or when unexpected visitors arrive.

Use signage to encourage your customers to indulge themselves in the great taste and healthy profile of your charcuterie selection this summer. Be sure to offer lots of tastings, recipes and serving suggestions to drive home the fact that the deli is the place to be in the summertime, the convenience of which makes the livin’ very easy indeed.

If you would like to comment or send us your feedback on this section, please send e-mail to: jmellgren@sbcglobal.net.

Other ways to incorporate cured meats into everyday foods:
• Place thin slices of prosciutto or jamón serrano on pizza.
• Chop ham, salami or other cured meats over salads.
• Sauté bits of bacon, pancetta or ham to add to pre-packaged soups such as tomato, squash, or creamy corn.
• When making summer soups, start by sautéing pancetta or bacon for added flavor.
• For appetizers, roll thin slices of ham, especially prosciutto San Daniele, around breadsticks.
• Air-cured ham is a perfect accompaniment to fresh fruits such as figs, melon and pears.
• Put out a plate composed entirely of sliced ham, salami and other cured meats, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, over which are strewn ribbons of basil, mint, or oregano.
• Wrap slices of air-cured ham or blanched slices of bacon around shrimp or dates, skewer with a toothpick, and cook under the broiler for wildly popular appetizers.
• Grill whole fish with slices of ham and bunches of fresh herbs inserted between the filets. In the Navarra region of Spain, they do this with freshly caught trout that, with ham inside, are dredged in seasoned flour and pan fried.
• For a simple summertime lunch or picnic, try salami sandwiches with nothing more than sweet butter on a baguette.

Mini Mozzarellas With Speck and Arugula
This is an adaptation of a recipe from the consortium that governs the making of Speck Alto Adige PGI.

Wrap as many mini mozzarella balls with thin strips of Speck Alto Adige without crusts as you will need. Place them upon a bed of freshly washed arugula. Shave thin flakes of grana cheese over the salad and drizzle the whole thing with good olive oil.