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Pecorino refers to any one of a number of sheep's milk cheeses made in Italy (pecora means sheep), particularly in the regions of Tuscany, Lazio (Rome), Sardinia, and Sicily. One of the oldest styles of cheese in Italy, or anywhere for that matter, it no doubt nourished the Roman legions as they marched around the known world expanding the Roman Empire's dominion. Pecorinos are to Southern Italy what Parmigiano-Reggiano and Grana Padano are to the North. In fact, until very recently, it was rare to encounter the northern grana-type cheeses anywhere below Rome. Cows are scarce in the south and although goats thrive in the more austere conditions of Southern Italy, they are usually reserved for their meat and small amounts of fresh milk. What cheese they do make from goat's milk is typically very fresh cheese that is consumed within days and never exported. The most famous of the pecorino cheeses is name-controlled Pecorino Romano, the genuine examples all being made in the province surrounding Rome. Large cheeses, they tend to be quite sharp and salty compared to the milder cow's milk grana cheeses of the north. Much of what is sold as Pecorino Romano, unless stamped by the consorzio as genuino, is actually made in Sardinia. Curiously, the Romanos from Sardinia are often considered inferior, and yet Pecorino Sardo, or Fiore Sardo, the name-protected cheeses of Sardinia, are notable cheeses that can easily rival any of the rest. Pecorinos vary greatly in intensity, which is determined by the region in which they are made, the time of year they are produced, and the cheesemakers' individual desires, but generally speaking, they are assertive cheeses that work best as cooking ingredients or in salads. One of the most famous ways of using the cheese, especially in Tuscany, is as an accompaniment to the fresh, young fava beans in the spring, along with extra-virgin olive oil and the local red wine. Pecorinos are also very good with salame, fresh fruit, crusty bread, and of course, grated over freshly cooked pasta, a staple of the southern regions. Because of the intense flavor, the cheese is best shaved for snacking rather than for cutting off in slices. Recently, the Academia Barilla, a group formed to single out Italy's great name-protected foods, has begun marketing a Pecorino Gran Cru, made in what is considered the best pecorino-producing region of Sardinia using grana-producing methods to achieve a lovely, sweet, and nutty version that melts very well, almost like a Gruyere-style cheese. Whichever region or style you choose, Pecorinos are fine examples from the rich lexicon of Italian cheeses and should hold a prominent place in your cheese case.