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It's not surprising that a country as closely identified with great cheese as Switzerland is would have as its national dish (at least for the French-speaking populace) a simmering pot of melted cheese in which to dip crusty pieces of bread. Although other dishes are probably consumed more often, such as the delicious fish from any of the country's several large lakes, fondue remains a favorite dish that is served often throughout the Alpine region. The name itself is French for "melted" from the verb fondre ("to melt") and in the case of this dish, specifically means melted cheese (fondue bourguignonne, from the other side of the border, uses hot oil as the cooking medium into which pieces of meat are inserted). Italians in the Valle d'Aosta region have a similar dish called fonduta made with their own Fontina cheese, and the Dutch make Kaasdoop (cheese dip) presumably from the Dutch version of Fontina, as well as Gouda and Edam. But it is in Switzerland that this dish excels, mainly due to the Swiss cheeses that perform so perfectly for the medium. Gruyère and Emmental are the classic cheeses for fondue, favored for their lovely, nutty flavor and for their excellent melting qualities. A small amount of Appenzeller is usually added for a bit of zest and piquancy. It is possible to substitute French Comté or Beaufort for Gruyère since they are very similar cheeses. In Switzerland, a caquelon, a wide, shallow earthenware dish that sits directly on a flame to keep the cheese hot for the meal's duration, is used to hold the cheese, although any heavy saucepan may be utilized. Recipes for fondue are usually very specific because melted cheese can present a number of problems if not done properly. For example, as Paula Lambert points out in her marvelous book The Cheese Lover's Cookbook & Guide, the addition of starch (such as flour or cornstarch) will keep the cheese from separating and curdling over the heat. Adding acidic components, such as wine, lemon juice, or kirsch (or all three as in a classic fondue), keeps the cheese from becoming stringy, which creates an unwanted, messy business when attempting to pull one's bread from the pot. Lambert also advises that this is a good technique to use when tossing Mozzarella with hot pasta. A properly made fondue is one of the great dishes of the world. Not only is it a delicious and healthful dish, but it is also great fun to experience the ritual of communal dining, as everyone vies for position with their little spears of bread. With all of the renewed interest in cheese, as well as the continued obsession with low-carbohydrate diets, we remain hopeful that classic Swiss fondue is poised for a comeback and will be coming soon to a dining room near you.