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Except for those heading to the lake country in the northern part, too many tourists know the Lombardy region only from flying in and out of Milan's airport. That's a shame because not only is Milan (Milano) a fabulous, energetic city, but the region itself is a lush and fertile area that is home to several of Italy's most cherished foods, especially cheeses. In fact, in his seminal book, Cheese Primer (Workman), author and master cheesemonger Steven Jenkins said, ". . . I consider Lombardy to be Italy's most important cheese region by far. It not only produces enormous amounts of its regional specialties, Taleggio, Gorgonzola, Stracchino, and Mascarpone, it is also a primary producer of Grana Padano and Provolone."

Nowhere was this fact more in evidence than at a recent dinner, sponsored by the Federlombarda Agricoltori, and arranged by Oldways Preservation & Exchange Trust at Del Posto that was held during the Summer Fancy Food Show in New York. Presiding over the dinner was Del Posto co-owner (along with Lidia Bastianich and Mario Batali) Joe Bastianich and Federlombarda products expert Lou DiPalo, a man who has forgotten more about Italian food than most of us will ever know. The dinner, attended by all sorts of Italian dignitaries, journalists, and a few importers, and produced by executive chef Mark Ladner, was intended to showcase Lombardy's fabulous food and wine. Name-controlled DOP Taleggio, the lovely, full-flavored washed-rind cheese from the valley of the same name, was one of the highlights, and as such appeared several times throughout the meal, which emphasized its versatility — first on a simple crostini, then as a delicious sauce (fonduta di Taleggioi) to accent crisp green beans and bresaola, the DOP dry-cured beef from the region and finally, as part of a trio of cheeses to end the meal. Grana Padano, arguably on of the world's greatest and most important cheeses, was featured throughout, including a 24-month-old wheel cut open for tasting, and grated into a perfect risotto con Riso Carnaroli DOP ai funghi porcini and used to coat little rice fritters. Perhaps the evening's highlight, however, (that is, next to the most amazing veal cutlet I've ever tasted) was a simple cheese plate of a sweet Gorgonzola, Taleggio and a piquant Gorgonzola accompanied by Mostarda Lombarda, a fruit preserve seasoned with mustard oil to a hot and sweet consistency that perfectly complemented the cheeses. My first introduction to Italy and its marvelous cuisine was through Milan and Lombardy and the region and its food have always remained among my favorites. I came away from this grand feast not only sated and extremely happy, but with a newfound enthusiasm for the region and the trio of cheeses that are such giants to anyone who cares about good cheeses. Also, it reinforced to me how versatile the cheeses are and how important they are in the kitchen, as well as at the table. Additionally, it occurred to me that a promotion of the products of Lombardy would be a formidable and exciting one, with plenty of great cheese, wine and other foods from which to select. All that would be missing would be the brilliant and personable Lou DiPalo to tell the stories of all the foods, and of course, Ladner's cooking.

Carpaccio with Grana Padano
Makes 4 servings
This recipe was provided by the Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Grana Padano.


INGREDIENTS
10½ ounces thinly sliced fillet of beef
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Spoonful of hot mustard
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little extra
1 tender young lettuce head
Freshly squeezed lemon juice
5½ ounces Grana Padano, shaved in thin slices
A few chives, chopped
Salt and pepper

PREPARATION
Have your butcher arrange the slices of beef in separate sheets.

Whisk together the vinegar and mustard in a bowl. When the mixture takes on a smooth, creamy consistency, add the oil and mix in with a fork. Salt to taste.

Carefully trim, wash and dry the lettuce and place in a large bowl. Season the lettuce with a little lemon juice and oil and place on either four individual plates or one big one for sharing. Arrange the slices of beef in a single layer on the plate. Cover with Grana Padano, chopped chives and a good helping of pepper on top of the lettuce. Drizzle with the vinaigrette and serve immediately.