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October 2008 Editor's Choice

Oct 3, 2008

-By James Mellgren


As usual, this month's selection of goodies is an eclectic lot of products, ranging quite literally from breakfast to midnight snacks. Some of these I discovered at the New York Fancy Food Show, while others just seemed to arrive at my office. Some of these food products can be consumed just the way they are; others are ingredients; and some are both. As for the hard goods represented, you'll find no gimmicks here, just straightforward tools that will make life and work in the kitchen easier and more enjoyable. I hope you enjoy these selections.


Lorea Butterfly Anchovies

I have always loved the anchovies from Spain. They tend to be redolent of the sea without tasting fishy or overly salty. Naturally I was very excited not only to discover a new line of excellent anchovies and tuna, but also to find these beautiful Butterfly Anchovies from Lorea, imported by expatriate Spaniard Alberto Solis. These are whole anchovies with the tail left on, making them ideal for presenting at the table or in a buffet selection. The Yurrita family has been producing tuna and anchovies since 1867 in the Basque coastal town of Mutriku in Northern Spain. After five generations, they are now the oldest seafood producer in Spain. For the Butterfly Anchovies, they use a premium fish, larger and meatier than the normal anchovy found in the market today. The anchovy fillets are carefully cleaned by hand and packed in extra-virgin olive oil. Their concern for the environment is reflected in their use of artisanal canning methods, sustainable fishing techniques and in their selection of fishing areas where species are not threatened. The proof is in the pudding, though, and these anchovies are fantastic. Although they are great mashed up and used in sauces, Caesar salad dressing and so on, they are too beautiful to not be used whole (I use their regular anchovies for those recipes). I've served the Butterfly Anchovies in our home two ways: simply splayed out on pieces of grilled, garlic-rubbed slices of baguette (be sure there is plenty of olive oil still clinging to the fish), and displayed on top of salads and even pasta dishes. Experimenting with Lorea products was like discovering anchovies all over again. Contact Epicure Spain at 510-531-6621 or e-mail alsolis55@yahoo.com.


Helen Chen's Perfect Rice Cooker

Leave it to the Chinese to invent a perfect way to cook rice. I love rice but I'm not a big appliance person, and I lack the counter space to accommodate an electric rice cooker; plus, I've never had trouble cooking rice on the stove. The new Perfect Rice Cooker from Helen's Asian Kitchen is the happy medium. It is essentially a porcelain pot with a cover and a stainless steel base. You simply add the measured rice and water to the pot, cover, insert into a stockpot that is partially filled with water, and steam for 20 to 30 minutes. You will end up with -- as the name suggests -- perfect rice every time. The small steel base prevents hotspots in the cooker, resulting in evenly cooked rice that will never burn, scorch, boil over or stick to the steamer. You can put the steamer into the dishwasher, and because it's relatively small -- 2.5 quarts -- it is easy to store with your bowls. An added bonus is that the Perfect Rice Cooker can also be used to make couscous, millet, barley, quinoa and other grains, as well as steamed soups. I discovered that it is also great for simply reheating leftovers like casseroles and rice dishes. For anyone who is at all intimidated by cooking rice, the Perfect Rice Cooker is ideal. Aside from keeping track of the cooking time, there is absolutely nothing to do, allowing the cook to focus on other dishes. Go to www.HelensAsianKitchen.com to see the whole line of Helen Chen's marvelous cookware and tabletop items. Helen's Asian Kitchen is distributed through Harold Import Company. Contact them at 800-526-2163 or www.haroldskitchen.com.


Box Grater From Microplane

Years ago, my brother complained to me that he couldn't find a box grater that would hold up to his rather forceful method of grating cheese, a task he takes very seriously. At last I can tell him I have found the right tool. Microplane's new Box Grater was introduced at the Summer Fancy Food Show. Like all of Microplane's products, the grater features surgical-grade stainless steel blades and an ergonomic, soft-grip handle. The box grater includes the most popular blades -- medium ribbon, extra coarse, a full-sized slicer and a removable fine zester blade. It also has non-slip rubber feet for stability and is completely dishwasher-safe. The company's signature blades have a patented razor-sharp edge that cuts through both hard and soft foods without tearing or shredding. Best of all, it's very sturdy and extremely comfortable to use. I find that because the feet lift the grater up off the counter or cutting board, it's easier to tell how much you have grated. The Microplane Box Grater is great for cheese -- hard and soft -- as well as chocolate, root vegetables, ginger and all kinds of other things that I haven't even tried. My brother will be very happy. For more information, call 800-555-2767 or visit www.microplane.com.


Bread & Jam From Pure Norway

I recently discovered Pure Norway, producers of a variety of delicacies from the country of my paternal ancestors. Stopping by their stand at Fancy Food out of curiosity, I was wowed by the incredible flavors of their products, particularly their bread mixes (that don't taste at all like mixes) and a selection of three jams. The breads are available in three varieties: Oatmeal, Sunflower Seed and Whole Grain. Because they already contain yeast, all you have to do is add water and mix; and because they have developed their own special powdered fat, the finished breads will stay moist and fresh for up to four days without the use of preservatives. The Norwegians like to fill the bread dough with vegetables before baking, a healthy and delicious idea. Perhaps the best thing about their breads is that they make the perfect vehicles for their delicious jams. I tried the Raspberry, Strawberry and real Wild Blueberry. Norwegians, including myself, love berries, and they are a significant part of Norwegian food traditions. The jams are quite low in sugar, probably because they don't need a lot, and the berries are so flavorful that they are delicious eaten straight from the jar. However, give yourself a treat and spread them on the Pure Norway Breads. For more information, e-mail sales@purenorwayusa.com or go to www.purenorway.no.


Lords of Salt Hand-Harvested Sea Salts

The folks at Barhyte Specialty Foods in Oregon had a great idea. Under the Lords of Salt brand, they take Portuguese hand-harvested sea salt and smoke it over alder wood while introducing a variety of high-quality ingredients for added flavor such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, hazelnuts and, of all things, chocolate. The results are some of the most versatile and delicious salts available. The salt is from the Nature Park Ria Formosa in southern Portugal. It is harvested by hand organically using traditional wooden rakes. The harvesters have earned the Slow Food Award for Defense of Biodiversity and also hold certification from Nature et Progres. They are just as meticulous in their sourcing of flavors. For example, the chocolate is from Dagoba Organic Chocolate in Ashland, Ore., and the wines are from Adelsheim Vineyards, also in Oregon. Besides the aforementioned flavors, they have added Serrano Lime and Olive to their selection. The salts work very well on all sorts of sweet and savory foods. I especially like using them on grilled meats, pasta dishes, fish, and in soups and stews. They are fun to taste using the suggestions from Lords of Salt that include putting some on unsalted butter, cream cheese or sliced cucumber. These salts are a great way to spruce up your everyday cooking and your most special recipes. So the next time someone tells you to take it with a grain of salt, you'll have a delicious variety from which to choose. For more information, call 800-227-4983 or visit www.lordsofsalt.com.


Pie Dish From Emile Henry

Leave it to a Frenchman to develop one of the best pie dishes ever. Emile Henry, producers of a whole line of ceramic bakers, are celebrating the 10th anniversary of their American Pie Dish; and to emphasize the fact, they have joined the American Pie Council. Their patented scalloped-edge pie dish (like the fluted crust on a pie) was developed by co-founder Jacques Henry in Marcigny, France, inspired by a turn-of-the-century photograph that was in his family's home. The dish, like all of Emile Henry's bakeware, is handcrafted from rich Burgundian clay and can go easily from the freezer to the oven and from the oven to the table without cracking. They are very resistant to chipping or breakage, and are not prone to crazing or discoloring. They are great for baking, and although it is designed for a classic American pie -- sweet or savory -- in our home, it is also recognized as the perfect dish for making classic French clafoutis, a fabulous dessert in which a kind of pancake batter is poured over ripe summer fruit and then baked. With the Emile Henry Pie Dish, it can be beautifully presented at the table for even the most elegant dinner. The dishes are available in the following colors: slate, sand, sky, figue, pink, azure, cerise, citron, as well as green, black and white. For more information, go to www.emilehenryusa.com.


Margaret's Artisan Bakery Crisps

One of my favorite finds at the recent Summer Fancy Food Show is from Canada, a wonderful line of Crisps. These Crisps are from Margaret's Artisan Bakery in Vaughan, Ontario, and they are one of the best vehicles for cheese, cured meats, pâtés, dips, smoked salmon and other savory snacks. Sure, bread is the obvious choice for serving cheese and charcuterie, but you don't always have fresh bread when you need it. Also, I find that bread fills me up very quickly, which is not a good thing if it is as a prelude to a meal. Besides, Margaret's Crisps come in four delightful and nutritious flavors: Cranberry Pumpkin Seed, Date & Walnut, Caramel Apricot Almond, and Goji Berry & Pistachio. They are made from 100 percent organic flour with no preservatives, additives, trans fats, cholesterol or even yeast. They basically make little loaves of bread that are sliced and dried somehow to preserve their flavor, resulting in a crisp and very flavorful snack. They can be frozen and they can go in the oven or the microwave. They are attractive, too. The various crisps contain ingredients like golden flax, brown sugar, buttermilk, organic wheat flour and, of course, all the ingredients listed above. They are my new favorite cracker on which to serve cheese, etc. Also delicious on their own as a snack, they really enhance the flavors of cheese, especially if you use aged or flavored cheeses. For more information, call them at 877-240-5384 or visit www.mjsfinefoods.com.


European-Style Butters From Epicurean Butter

This product contains two of my favorite foods -- butter and salt. After receiving such a bad rap for so many years, butter, especially full-fat, European-style butter, is once again getting some of the attention it deserves. Epicurean Butter makes a line of compound butters, both sweet and savory, that allow one to flavor food the way restaurant cooks have done for eons. Now they have launched two simple yet delicious and versatile butters that will add big flavor to your kitchen arsenal: European-Style Butter with Mediterranean Sea Salt & Olive Oil and European-Style Butter with Lime Sea Salt. In both cases, the wonderful creaminess of the butter gives way to the crunch of the sea salt crystals, and then in the case of the latter, the snap of citrus adds a brightness that is fabulous on grilled seafood or corn on the cob. I have to admit to a fair amount of simply spreading them on a variety of toasted breads as a cocktail hors d'oeuvre with a glass of wine. As the folks at Epicurean Butter say, these butters make it simple to create impressive meals effortlessly. And snacks, too! For more information, call them at 720-261-8175, e-mail epicureanbutter@msn.com or go to www.epicureanbutter.com.


Udi's Natural Artisan Granola

Udi's is a Denver-based bread bakery and sandwich enterprise (they deliver around 2,000 sandwiches a day to local coffee shops and food stores), started by Udi Baron who traded a career in economics for one in the food business. In addition to what I hear is outstanding bread, they have added an outstanding granola to their mix -- Udi's Natural Artisan Granola -- adapted from an old family recipe by pastry chef and Udi's business partner Yasmin Lozada-Hissom. I tried a couple of varieties: the Original, made with thick-cut rolled oats, wildflower honey, canola oil, raisins, banana chips, walnuts, cashews, almonds and pistachios, as well as their new BanaBerry, aimed as an anti-junk cereal for children with the same rolled oats, wildflower honey, bananas and strawberries. They are both great as breakfast cereal, of course, but I found myself keeping some at desk side to stave off hunger in the mid-morning hours. We can't all be lucky enough to be able to have access to Udi's bread and sandwiches, but the whole country can enjoy what I think is a wonderful addition to the granola shelf. For more information, call 303-657-6366, e-mail granola@udisfood.com or visit www.udisgranola.com.


Touché Bakery Biscotti

Here is another Canadian product that caught my attention -- an extensive line of traditionally made biscotti from Touché Bakery in London, Ontario. Not just your typical biscotti, this company has set their product apart from the rest with some very creative flavors that include White Chocolate Ginger, Orange Zest (my personal favorite), Vanilla Chocolate, Triple Chocolate, Orange Chocolate, and Extra Cranberry. The biscotti, or twice-baked cookies (biscotti literally means "twice cooked"), are individually wrapped, making them a great snack for the car, the office, the dorm and so on. Made with real butter and other quality ingredients, and without the use of trans fats, these have a homemade flavor about them; and with their unique collection of flavors, there is something here for every taste and every age. For more information, call 519-455-0044 or e-mail aswartz@touchebakery.com.

Comments? mellgren56@gmail.com


October 2008 Editor's Choice

Oct 3, 2008

-By James Mellgren


As usual, this month's selection of goodies is an eclectic lot of products, ranging quite literally from breakfast to midnight snacks. Some of these I discovered at the New York Fancy Food Show, while others just seemed to arrive at my office. Some of these food products can be consumed just the way they are; others are ingredients; and some are both. As for the hard goods represented, you'll find no gimmicks here, just straightforward tools that will make life and work in the kitchen easier and more enjoyable. I hope you enjoy these selections.


Lorea Butterfly Anchovies

I have always loved the anchovies from Spain. They tend to be redolent of the sea without tasting fishy or overly salty. Naturally I was very excited not only to discover a new line of excellent anchovies and tuna, but also to find these beautiful Butterfly Anchovies from Lorea, imported by expatriate Spaniard Alberto Solis. These are whole anchovies with the tail left on, making them ideal for presenting at the table or in a buffet selection. The Yurrita family has been producing tuna and anchovies since 1867 in the Basque coastal town of Mutriku in Northern Spain. After five generations, they are now the oldest seafood producer in Spain. For the Butterfly Anchovies, they use a premium fish, larger and meatier than the normal anchovy found in the market today. The anchovy fillets are carefully cleaned by hand and packed in extra-virgin olive oil. Their concern for the environment is reflected in their use of artisanal canning methods, sustainable fishing techniques and in their selection of fishing areas where species are not threatened. The proof is in the pudding, though, and these anchovies are fantastic. Although they are great mashed up and used in sauces, Caesar salad dressing and so on, they are too beautiful to not be used whole (I use their regular anchovies for those recipes). I've served the Butterfly Anchovies in our home two ways: simply splayed out on pieces of grilled, garlic-rubbed slices of baguette (be sure there is plenty of olive oil still clinging to the fish), and displayed on top of salads and even pasta dishes. Experimenting with Lorea products was like discovering anchovies all over again. Contact Epicure Spain at 510-531-6621 or e-mail alsolis55@yahoo.com.


Helen Chen's Perfect Rice Cooker

Leave it to the Chinese to invent a perfect way to cook rice. I love rice but I'm not a big appliance person, and I lack the counter space to accommodate an electric rice cooker; plus, I've never had trouble cooking rice on the stove. The new Perfect Rice Cooker from Helen's Asian Kitchen is the happy medium. It is essentially a porcelain pot with a cover and a stainless steel base. You simply add the measured rice and water to the pot, cover, insert into a stockpot that is partially filled with water, and steam for 20 to 30 minutes. You will end up with -- as the name suggests -- perfect rice every time. The small steel base prevents hotspots in the cooker, resulting in evenly cooked rice that will never burn, scorch, boil over or stick to the steamer. You can put the steamer into the dishwasher, and because it's relatively small -- 2.5 quarts -- it is easy to store with your bowls. An added bonus is that the Perfect Rice Cooker can also be used to make couscous, millet, barley, quinoa and other grains, as well as steamed soups. I discovered that it is also great for simply reheating leftovers like casseroles and rice dishes. For anyone who is at all intimidated by cooking rice, the Perfect Rice Cooker is ideal. Aside from keeping track of the cooking time, there is absolutely nothing to do, allowing the cook to focus on other dishes. Go to www.HelensAsianKitchen.com to see the whole line of Helen Chen's marvelous cookware and tabletop items. Helen's Asian Kitchen is distributed through Harold Import Company. Contact them at 800-526-2163 or www.haroldskitchen.com.


Box Grater From Microplane

Years ago, my brother complained to me that he couldn't find a box grater that would hold up to his rather forceful method of grating cheese, a task he takes very seriously. At last I can tell him I have found the right tool. Microplane's new Box Grater was introduced at the Summer Fancy Food Show. Like all of Microplane's products, the grater features surgical-grade stainless steel blades and an ergonomic, soft-grip handle. The box grater includes the most popular blades -- medium ribbon, extra coarse, a full-sized slicer and a removable fine zester blade. It also has non-slip rubber feet for stability and is completely dishwasher-safe. The company's signature blades have a patented razor-sharp edge that cuts through both hard and soft foods without tearing or shredding. Best of all, it's very sturdy and extremely comfortable to use. I find that because the feet lift the grater up off the counter or cutting board, it's easier to tell how much you have grated. The Microplane Box Grater is great for cheese -- hard and soft -- as well as chocolate, root vegetables, ginger and all kinds of other things that I haven't even tried. My brother will be very happy. For more information, call 800-555-2767 or visit www.microplane.com.


Bread & Jam From Pure Norway

I recently discovered Pure Norway, producers of a variety of delicacies from the country of my paternal ancestors. Stopping by their stand at Fancy Food out of curiosity, I was wowed by the incredible flavors of their products, particularly their bread mixes (that don't taste at all like mixes) and a selection of three jams. The breads are available in three varieties: Oatmeal, Sunflower Seed and Whole Grain. Because they already contain yeast, all you have to do is add water and mix; and because they have developed their own special powdered fat, the finished breads will stay moist and fresh for up to four days without the use of preservatives. The Norwegians like to fill the bread dough with vegetables before baking, a healthy and delicious idea. Perhaps the best thing about their breads is that they make the perfect vehicles for their delicious jams. I tried the Raspberry, Strawberry and real Wild Blueberry. Norwegians, including myself, love berries, and they are a significant part of Norwegian food traditions. The jams are quite low in sugar, probably because they don't need a lot, and the berries are so flavorful that they are delicious eaten straight from the jar. However, give yourself a treat and spread them on the Pure Norway Breads. For more information, e-mail sales@purenorwayusa.com or go to www.purenorway.no.


Lords of Salt Hand-Harvested Sea Salts

The folks at Barhyte Specialty Foods in Oregon had a great idea. Under the Lords of Salt brand, they take Portuguese hand-harvested sea salt and smoke it over alder wood while introducing a variety of high-quality ingredients for added flavor such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, hazelnuts and, of all things, chocolate. The results are some of the most versatile and delicious salts available. The salt is from the Nature Park Ria Formosa in southern Portugal. It is harvested by hand organically using traditional wooden rakes. The harvesters have earned the Slow Food Award for Defense of Biodiversity and also hold certification from Nature et Progres. They are just as meticulous in their sourcing of flavors. For example, the chocolate is from Dagoba Organic Chocolate in Ashland, Ore., and the wines are from Adelsheim Vineyards, also in Oregon. Besides the aforementioned flavors, they have added Serrano Lime and Olive to their selection. The salts work very well on all sorts of sweet and savory foods. I especially like using them on grilled meats, pasta dishes, fish, and in soups and stews. They are fun to taste using the suggestions from Lords of Salt that include putting some on unsalted butter, cream cheese or sliced cucumber. These salts are a great way to spruce up your everyday cooking and your most special recipes. So the next time someone tells you to take it with a grain of salt, you'll have a delicious variety from which to choose. For more information, call 800-227-4983 or visit www.lordsofsalt.com.


Pie Dish From Emile Henry

Leave it to a Frenchman to develop one of the best pie dishes ever. Emile Henry, producers of a whole line of ceramic bakers, are celebrating the 10th anniversary of their American Pie Dish; and to emphasize the fact, they have joined the American Pie Council. Their patented scalloped-edge pie dish (like the fluted crust on a pie) was developed by co-founder Jacques Henry in Marcigny, France, inspired by a turn-of-the-century photograph that was in his family's home. The dish, like all of Emile Henry's bakeware, is handcrafted from rich Burgundian clay and can go easily from the freezer to the oven and from the oven to the table without cracking. They are very resistant to chipping or breakage, and are not prone to crazing or discoloring. They are great for baking, and although it is designed for a classic American pie -- sweet or savory -- in our home, it is also recognized as the perfect dish for making classic French clafoutis, a fabulous dessert in which a kind of pancake batter is poured over ripe summer fruit and then baked. With the Emile Henry Pie Dish, it can be beautifully presented at the table for even the most elegant dinner. The dishes are available in the following colors: slate, sand, sky, figue, pink, azure, cerise, citron, as well as green, black and white. For more information, go to www.emilehenryusa.com.


Margaret's Artisan Bakery Crisps

One of my favorite finds at the recent Summer Fancy Food Show is from Canada, a wonderful line of Crisps. These Crisps are from Margaret's Artisan Bakery in Vaughan, Ontario, and they are one of the best vehicles for cheese, cured meats, pâtés, dips, smoked salmon and other savory snacks. Sure, bread is the obvious choice for serving cheese and charcuterie, but you don't always have fresh bread when you need it. Also, I find that bread fills me up very quickly, which is not a good thing if it is as a prelude to a meal. Besides, Margaret's Crisps come in four delightful and nutritious flavors: Cranberry Pumpkin Seed, Date & Walnut, Caramel Apricot Almond, and Goji Berry & Pistachio. They are made from 100 percent organic flour with no preservatives, additives, trans fats, cholesterol or even yeast. They basically make little loaves of bread that are sliced and dried somehow to preserve their flavor, resulting in a crisp and very flavorful snack. They can be frozen and they can go in the oven or the microwave. They are attractive, too. The various crisps contain ingredients like golden flax, brown sugar, buttermilk, organic wheat flour and, of course, all the ingredients listed above. They are my new favorite cracker on which to serve cheese, etc. Also delicious on their own as a snack, they really enhance the flavors of cheese, especially if you use aged or flavored cheeses. For more information, call them at 877-240-5384 or visit www.mjsfinefoods.com.


European-Style Butters From Epicurean Butter

This product contains two of my favorite foods -- butter and salt. After receiving such a bad rap for so many years, butter, especially full-fat, European-style butter, is once again getting some of the attention it deserves. Epicurean Butter makes a line of compound butters, both sweet and savory, that allow one to flavor food the way restaurant cooks have done for eons. Now they have launched two simple yet delicious and versatile butters that will add big flavor to your kitchen arsenal: European-Style Butter with Mediterranean Sea Salt & Olive Oil and European-Style Butter with Lime Sea Salt. In both cases, the wonderful creaminess of the butter gives way to the crunch of the sea salt crystals, and then in the case of the latter, the snap of citrus adds a brightness that is fabulous on grilled seafood or corn on the cob. I have to admit to a fair amount of simply spreading them on a variety of toasted breads as a cocktail hors d'oeuvre with a glass of wine. As the folks at Epicurean Butter say, these butters make it simple to create impressive meals effortlessly. And snacks, too! For more information, call them at 720-261-8175, e-mail epicureanbutter@msn.com or go to www.epicureanbutter.com.


Udi's Natural Artisan Granola

Udi's is a Denver-based bread bakery and sandwich enterprise (they deliver around 2,000 sandwiches a day to local coffee shops and food stores), started by Udi Baron who traded a career in economics for one in the food business. In addition to what I hear is outstanding bread, they have added an outstanding granola to their mix -- Udi's Natural Artisan Granola -- adapted from an old family recipe by pastry chef and Udi's business partner Yasmin Lozada-Hissom. I tried a couple of varieties: the Original, made with thick-cut rolled oats, wildflower honey, canola oil, raisins, banana chips, walnuts, cashews, almonds and pistachios, as well as their new BanaBerry, aimed as an anti-junk cereal for children with the same rolled oats, wildflower honey, bananas and strawberries. They are both great as breakfast cereal, of course, but I found myself keeping some at desk side to stave off hunger in the mid-morning hours. We can't all be lucky enough to be able to have access to Udi's bread and sandwiches, but the whole country can enjoy what I think is a wonderful addition to the granola shelf. For more information, call 303-657-6366, e-mail granola@udisfood.com or visit www.udisgranola.com.


Touché Bakery Biscotti

Here is another Canadian product that caught my attention -- an extensive line of traditionally made biscotti from Touché Bakery in London, Ontario. Not just your typical biscotti, this company has set their product apart from the rest with some very creative flavors that include White Chocolate Ginger, Orange Zest (my personal favorite), Vanilla Chocolate, Triple Chocolate, Orange Chocolate, and Extra Cranberry. The biscotti, or twice-baked cookies (biscotti literally means "twice cooked"), are individually wrapped, making them a great snack for the car, the office, the dorm and so on. Made with real butter and other quality ingredients, and without the use of trans fats, these have a homemade flavor about them; and with their unique collection of flavors, there is something here for every taste and every age. For more information, call 519-455-0044 or e-mail aswartz@touchebakery.com.

Comments? mellgren56@gmail.com

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