-By James Mellgren

I've lamented the disappearance of many things over the years, especially those I never got to experience; Les Halles in Paris, The Crystal Pavilion in London, and Luchow's in New York, to name just a few. But there is one experience that I lament perhaps more than all the rest, combining adventure and cuisine in a unique way, and one that I have only experienced vicariously, albeit palpably, in the Travel section of the Sunday New York Times a dozen or so years ago. The article described a trans-Canadian train trip in which one could traverse the whole of Canada, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean in six days. Immediately I thought it sounded like a wonderfully romantic adventure and a great opportunity to see our great northern neighbor in one fell swoop. However, it wasn't until I came across the following excerpt from Pierre & Janet Berton's Canadian Food Guide (1974, The Canadian Publishers, Toronto) that the demise of the great railroads became for me a kind of dirge for the passing of a way of life:

"As the decades rolled on, Canadian railway dining became known the world over, for it was without doubt superior to any other. The mounds of crackling crisp Canadian bacon, the evenly grilled Calgary sirloins, the plump, pink spring lamb chops, the succulent goldeyes with their melting pat of parsley butter, the juicy lake fish, slightly charred, the Oka and cheddar cheese and the hot seasonal blueberry pies -- all these came to be associated almost exclusively with our transcontinental train service. It is perhaps not too much to say that, if there is a distinctly Canadian style of cuisine, it is this; and not too surprising that, in an artificial nation bound together by bands of steel, it should spring directly from our dining cars."

I'm not sure what they mean by "an artificial nation," but I can only imagine the fine dining offered on those great iron horses speeding across the country. As I mused on the excerpt, I realized that all of this is still there, but today, instead of the dining cars of the Canadian Pacific Railroad, it is to be found in restaurants across the country, helmed by talented young chefs keen on evoking traditional Canadian fare, and in the countless artisanal foods produced on farms and in factories across the land. And so lamentation has turned instead to exultation since I know it is only a plane ride away, and one I'll be taking again this spring when I head north to attend SIAL Montréal and experience once again the glories of Canadian food. O, Canada!

A Brief History and Geography of Canada
Spanning one-sixth of the northern hemisphere, Canada is the second largest country on earth in total area. The country is comprised of 10 provinces (can you name them?) and three territories (Yukon, Northwest Territory, and Nunavut), and although it's bigger and wider than the United States, its population is roughly one-tenth of ours (about 33 million people). The name comes from the Iroquois word, kanata, meaning village or settlement. In 1535, the indigenous people living on the site of present-day Quebec City used the word to direct the French explorer Jacques Cartier toward another village he was seeking. He erroneously took it to mean the whole area, and by 1545, the entire region was referred to as Canada in European books. First explored and settled by the French, it was the British that would arise as the ruling factor, dominating the politics, the language (the country is officially bilingual in English and French), and culture, except of course for the province of Quebec that has remained staunchly French ("Paris without the jet lag" as Montréal is called in travel literature).

Canada, like the United States, was inhabited by many indigenous tribes prior to the arrival of the first Europeans. And just who were the first Europeans to land in Canada? Quite likely the Vikings, who briefly settled along the eastern coast in about 1000 A.D., but then left with nary a trace. Intrepid Basque fishermen have been fishing for cod off the coasts of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia for centuries and may have made excursions onto land although they never settled if they did. Finally, it was a succession of French and British explorers who would claim Canada as their own (for a marvelous account of life in early 17th century Quebec, read Willa Cather's Shadows on the Rock). Canada became a confederation in 1867 and the name was officially applied to the whole country. They gained their independence from Britain in 1931 with the passing of the Statute of Westminster, and severed the last vestiges of legal dependence on the British Parliament in 1982 with the Canada, or Constitution Act. Their beautiful and unique Maple Leaf flag was adopted in 1965, and the Official Languages Act of 1969 established English and French as the two official languages, although there are also many ancient tribal languages that are still alive and well. Canada is a thriving, multicultural society where the rights of the individual are considered paramount and, unlike our own United States, they enjoy universal health care.

The Bounty of the Land
Like our own melting pot culture, Canada's food scene reflects the layer upon layer of influences starting with the many native cultures and, of course, the French and British heritage, but also Scottish, German, Mennonite and Amish, Ukrainian, and in the west, migrations from Asia, especially Hong Kong, China and Taiwan, as well as from Africa and the Caribbean. Whatever the influences are, however, the food ultimately relies on the bounty of the land, from the Atlantic seafood in the Maritimes to the freshwater fish, maple syrup, berries, cheeses and unique cornmeal-coated Canadian bacon, or "peameal" bacon (lean boneless pork loin, pickle-cured and rolled in cornmeal) of the Central provinces of Ontario and Quebec, to the vast fields of wheat, flax, and other grains from the Prairie Provinces, to sockeye and coho salmon of the Pacific coast in British Columbia.

Through the generous help provided by Mary-Jane Ginsberg, Trade Commissioner for Agri-Food, Agriculture, Fish and Seafood for the Consulate General of Canada in San Francisco, I learned about several food companies that together offer a good cross-section of Canadian artisanal food production across the country. The following are some capsule looks at what's cooking across Canada.

Starting in the wine country of the central region (Ontario and Quebec), Chef Mark Walpole founded a company called Vinifera for Life that converts the leftover grape skins from the winemaking process into a flour/powder that can be used to make bread, pizza dough, pasta and pastries. The skins are dried before being sifted and ground into a fine powder. These flours are made from several varieties of grape including Cabernet, Chardonnay, the region's fabulous Icewine and Late Harvest wines. Walpole continues to look for new ways to use this unique product, among which are crackers, snack foods, energy bars and drinks. (www.viniferaforlife.com)

Also in the winemaking world is Gourmet du Village Wine Country Collection, a line of savory foods including Cheese Ball seasonings, Sangria Mix, Mustard with Chardonnay, Sun-Dried Tomato Dip mix, Carrot Ginger Soup mix, and Snacking Crackers, all featuring the distinctive graphics bearing clusters of Cabernet and Chardonnay grapes. All of this can be accompanied by their matching line of porcelain serving pieces such as a ceramic Brie Baker, Cheese Platter, Dip Chiller, Drink Pitcher, and Wine Chiller. (www.gourmetduvillage.com)

This is also cheese country which is not a huge surprise given the French influence in this part of Canada. It certainly seems, at least in Québec anyway, that goats reign supreme. They are bred for their milk, meat and wool -- different breeds, of course -- and most of the Canadian cheeses I saw at SIAL Montréal last year were made from goat's milk. Most familiar to U.S. consumers is Chèvre Noir, a wonderful aged cheddar-like goat cheese in a black rind from Fromagerie Tournevent, recently purchased by Canadian dairy company Damafro. Other significant cheese companies here include the aforementioned Damafro who produce an outstanding brie (not surprising since the founder hails from Brie where he once owned a cheese factory), and some excellent washed-rind goat cheeses like La Rebelle and St. Damase, and a bloomy-rind cheese called Le Sensible, a most "sensitive" cheese with a lovely soft texture and milky, mushroom-y flavor; and Fromagerie Madame-Chèvre, a part of Woolwich Dairy, that makes, among others, two delicious soft-ripened goat cheeses, Le Soeur Angèle and Roubine de Novan.

Riverbend Plantation, a gourmet processor and grower of Saskatoon berries in Saskatchewan, made its debut this year at the Winter Fancy Food Show. Saskatoon berries are similar to blueberries in size and color but have a tarter flavor. They grow wild in the prairie region of Western Canada (Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta and northern British Columbia). In the mid-1900s, orchards were started with the wild plants and now there are several products in the marketplace from traditional jams and jellies to chocolates, tea, drinks, salad dressings, and other foods. Saskatoon berries are also very healthful, comparable to blueberries in antioxidant levels, and actually higher in fiber, magnesium, potassium and manganese than blueberries. Riverbend Plantation has the ability to market finished products as well as frozen berries to other processors, stores, restaurants and even consumers in the United States, and they offer sampling programs, point-of-sale materials, and a varied product line. (www.riverbendplantation.com)

Concerned about the viability of the agricultural industry, as well as for the next generation of farmers, a group of 38 farmers from the village of Waskada and three other surrounding communities in southwest Manitoba near the Canadian/U.S. border formed the Farm Genesis Group to produce a line of products with assistance from the Food Development Centre. Farm Genesis Group is an umbrella organization for value-added products bearing the "Manitoba" brand. There are plans for food products, beverages, nutraceuticals and possibly even biofuels. Their first foray into value-added products, however, has been with hemp, the ubiquitous weed that was grown for making rope and other fibrous materials, especially during WWII. So far, they have produced Hulled Hemp Seed, Toasted Hemp Seed and Hemp Protein Powder. Hulled hemp has a nutty flavor when toasted. There are also plans for Hemp Energy Bars. (www.farmgenesis.com)

Hakai Foods came about as a result of an annual family fishing trip in Hakai Pass in British Columbia. After these summer trips, a tradition grew around the annual salmon BBQ in which founder Howard McMahon would serve his "famous" BBQ sauce. When his wife went into bed rest while carrying the couple's soon-to-be triplet girls, McMahon left his retail piano business to pursue BBQ sauce full time ("I didn't want to argue with a woman pregnant with triplets"). Today, Hakai Foods Salmon BBQ Sauce is distributed across Canada and Europe, and they recently made their American debut at the Winter Fancy Food Show. The line of BBQ sauces all bear regional influences, such as Famous Montreal Chicken & Rib BBQ Sauce, Famous Alberta Beef BBQ Sauce, Famous Mongolian BBQ Sauce, and Famous New Zealand Lamb BBQ Sauce. (www.hakaifoods.com)

Being the vinegar nut that I am, I was particularly interested in Shady Glen's line of fine fruit vinegars. With the goal to introduce the world to the distinctive flavors of British Columbia, Shady Glen Enterprises uses only the finest-quality sun-ripened berries and other fruits to make their artisanal vinegar. The fruits are all hand-selected and hand-picked for Shady Glen. The vinegars are made through the natural process of fermentation and slow aging with no additives. Right now, the vinegars are available in three flavors, all with whimsical names that accurately describe the flavors: RUSH Raspberry, BAM! Blackberry, and AH! But a Bing! Cherry. These vinegars with their snappy names and colorful graphics are not only highly delicious but healthful and nutritious. (www.loveberries.com)

I've saved what might be the best for last. Caramoomel, a family-owned and operated company from British Columbia, also made its U.S. debut at the Winter Fancy Food Show this year. I like everything about this company, all women as far as I can tell (the men must be tending the fields), who start with heritage family recipes that have been handed down from mother to daughter for generations. They grow most of the fruits and vegetables themselves on their own farm with the remainder coming from other like-minded local farms. They eschew any artificial additives ("I am a cook, not a chemist," insists Antonia Dudka, the matriarch, company founder and head food creator), and that philosophy can be tasted in every jar they make. The unique company name refers to their first product, Dulce de Leche, which the family developed a taste for while living in Argentina for a number of years. Because of the fresh milk in the caramel, Cara-MOO-mel was born (originally the name of one product and subsequently the company name). The line now consists of various spreads, caramels, apple butters, wine jellies, hot sauces and their signature Veggie Caviar. (www.caramoomel.com)

Let's face it, Americans on this side of Niagara Falls are woefully ignorant about Canada, and I have always counted myself in that category. However, through research and a visit to SIAL Montréal last spring, I got a small sense of what is going on in Canada, and I like what I've seen. Maple wine vinegar (outstanding), apple ice wine, amazing honey and honey products, and wonderful chocolates and other confections abounded at the show. I'm going back this year with a renewed sense of enthusiasm for Canadian products. SIAL Montréal is a great way to introduce yourself to these companies and products. Also, the people are lovely, the food is terrific, the cheese is world-class, and Canada is easy to get to -- so what's keeping you? SIAL Montréal 2008 commences in just a few weeks and, starting this year, is an annual event. It will give you a whole new perspective on our great northern neighbor -- without the jet lag!

Comments? jmellgren@sbcglobal.net