-By Kristin V. Montalvo

As hinted by its name, the country of Ecuador lies on either side of 0° latitude. Its neighbor in the south and east is Peru, while Colombia shares a border in the north. Its culinary landscape is truly endless, while its soups alone (not to mention the fruits and countless varieties of Andean potatoes) deserve pages.

While neighboring Peru usually gains accolades for some of Latin America's best first course. Locro soup is made with potato, cheese and corn with half an avocado tossed in for good measure. Chupe de pescado, a fish and vegetable soup with coastal origins, is becoming popular throughout the country. Bolder diners can try yaguarlocro, a potato soup made with sprinklings of blood. Those ready to throw their inhibitions completely to the wind should dip their spoon into caldo de pata (a broth containing chunks of boiled cow hooves, considered a delicacy by locals and believed by hopeful men to increase virility) or, dare we mention, Caldo de Tronquito (bull penis soup).

Bananas form the basis of many dishes in Ecuador: a dip for tortilla chips with beans, sausage, tomato sauce and spices; platano verde (thinly sliced and fried bananas); and patacones (thick-sliced bananas fried in lard, then mashed flat and fried again).

Foods are cooked in achiote oil or lard. Refrito, a fried mixture containing chopped onions, green peppers, tomato, achiote and salt and/or garlic, is added to many cooked dishes, like sofrito. Aji peppers form the basis of many condiments and sauces, such as aji costeño with onions and cilantro, and aji Serrano with chopped tomato and carrots.

Each of Ecuador's three main regions -- the Pacific coast, the Andean highlands and the Amazon region known as the Oriente -- has its own unique cuisine. There is a deep foundation of Incan heritage mixed together with the influence of Old World cuisine. The more authentic Incan cuisine is focused in the mountainous inland areas where the diet is mostly meat and potatoes. Nearer the coast, European influence holds sway, and the diet is centered more on fish and seafood.

The Coastal Region (Litoral)
This region runs along the western edge of the country, bordering the Pacific Ocean. Due to colder currents, a variety of fish and shellfish can be found in this part of the Pacific and, therefore, this region's cuisine tends to be dominated by seafood.

Ceviche is one of Ecuador's favorite seafood dishes and there are several variations. Ecuadorian ceviche is soupier than that of neighboring Peru, although Peruvian ceviches are common along the southern border. Most ceviches in Ecuador mix a generous portion of raw fish and seafood (sea bass and shrimp are the most common) with lime juice, cilantro, aji peppers and, occasionally, tomatoes. Sometimes lemon juice, orange or tomato juice is used rather than lime. It is generally served with fried plantain chips (chifles) and popcorn on the side.

Other coastal favorites include Encocados (fish dish with a Caribbean flavor, cooked in a sauce of coconut milk, tomato and garlic, and often served with a huge mound of rice); Cazuela (a plantain-based casserole dish with fish or shrimp, and sometimes peanut sauce); as well as meat-based Guatita (cow stomach cooked in a hard-boiled egg and peanut sauce, and served with boiled potatoes); Aguado de gallina (chicken rice soup); and Seco de chivo (stewed goat or lamb meat served with rice and plantains).

The Andean Region
The food of the Ecuadorian Andes maintains many of the same qualities and uses many of the same recipes as the Andes in Colombia, Peru or elsewhere. Potato, corn, carrots, soft salty cheeses and grains such as quinoa and rice are common ingredients in Ecuador's dominant mountain chain. For meat, almost any animal and almost every part of the animal are used. Don't be surprised to see the head of a pig and a pile of intestines being dished out from a small streetside stall.


Guinea pigs or cuy as they are called in Ecuador are being cooking over an outdoor grill outside a local resturant.

As with the coastal region, each city or town has its own variations for each dish, but some of the more common culinary delights include Llapingachos (fried potato cakes filled with cheese and topped with a fried egg and a side of chorizo sausage, atop a salad of lettuce, tomato, and cooked carrots and beets); Mote con chicharron (hominy served with fried pig fat); Hornado (tender roasted pork served with agrio, a vinegary parsley and lemon sauce) and llapingachos and/or mote (hominy); Locro de papa (thick potato and cheese or egg soup); and the famous Cuy (roasted or fried guinea pig served with potatoes topped with a peanut sauce -- a specialty of the indigenous highlanders for centuries).

Comments? kmontalvo@gourmetretailer.com