-By James Mellgren

Jack Sprat could eat no fat,
His wife could eat no lean.
And so betwixt them both,
They lick’d the platter clean.

Despite what many of our film and television actresses might believe, some amount of fat is essential to a healthy life, not to mention a tastier one; and although most of us don’t need as much as our ancestors, most of whom worked hard without the benefit of modern labor-saving devices, to eschew fat altogether would leave life and food very bland indeed. In other words, health and nutrition issues aside, fat equals flavor. Foods without fat will never have the rich flavor and satisfying texture of foods that do contain some amount of fat. Also, many of our most cherished cooking methods would be impossible without some kind of fat. The choice of fat, however, determines many things, including the flavor of food and the type of cooking technique used. Fats differ in terms of how they affect our health, too, and careful consideration should be paid and some level of knowledge gained about the various types of cooking oils and fats that we use in our kitchens, whether they are commercial or residential. While I don’t necessarily believe there is such a thing as “bad” fat, some are definitely better than others, both in terms of health and cooking. So while Mrs. Sprat is not to be envied or emulated, neither should her ectomorphic husband, for neither extreme is good — in cooking or in life.

The Skinny on Fat
Fats and oils are essentially the same, the former usually referring to fats that typically exist in a solid state (butter, lard) while the latter are liquids (olive oil, canola). In addition to providing a vehicle for flavor (if you had similar cuts, one of beef and one of mutton, and if you could remove every bit of fat from them, it would be near impossible to tell the difference between the two), fat in our food accomplishes several important things. From a purely aesthetic angle, in addition to flavor, fat makes food more palatable, making foods smoother, creamier and more tender. On the practical side, because it takes longer to digest, fat in our food keeps us from feeling hungry between meals. Fat carries vitamins A, D, E and K (vitamins that are soluble in fat, not water), as well as certain fatty acids like linoleic acid. Fat also equals energy. In fact, fat gives one twice as much energy as sugar, which is why one might crave fatty foods more if one is scything the north 40.

It is often thought, from a health standpoint, that Westerners generally consume too much fat for our lifestyles. Conversely, in many Eastern countries, especially places like Japan and Southeast Asia, the typical diet is very low in fat and yet the people there are very healthy, and have a much lower incident of obesity and certain cancers. In recent years, we have discovered that the type of fat consumed is at least as important as the amount of fat consumed. It is commonly thought today that a diet low in saturated fats (butter, red meats) is better for our health and that one should choose unsaturated fats, and especially those that are monounsaturated, such as olive oil and canola oil. Trans fats, found in foods made with partially hydrogenated oils, are best avoided altogether. Health experts have determined that no amount of trans fat is acceptable in a healthy diet.

Olive Oil
Olive oil is one of our most ancient foods, olives having been cultivated in their native Mediterranean region for over 6,000 years. It is also one of the most fundamental items in the specialty food business (Joel Dean of Dean & DeLuca once told me the main reason he and Giorgio DeLuca began their iconic store was because they couldn’t find a decent bottle of olive oil in their supermarket). Like wine grapes, which olives usually grow in proximity to, olives come in dozens of varieties, each one exuding its own special flavor profile. The resulting oils are often judged like fine wines and can command similar prices. The best examples — extra-virgin, cold-pressed versions from places like Spain, Italy, Greece, France, Turkey and California — are highly coveted by chefs and connoisseurs. Because of the highly nuanced flavors inherent in olive oils, they can be paired with specific foods for very tasty results, such as light, herbaceous oils with delicate fish or vegetables, and heavier, nuttier oils with more robust foods, for example. Because olive oil is predominantly made up of monounsaturated fat, it has the distinct advantage of being able to actually lower the LDL (bad) cholesterol and raise the HDL (good) cholesterol in the body’s bloodstream. This healthy attribute, much touted in the past couple of decades, along with its superior flavor and performance in cooking, has helped rocket olive oil to culinary stardom, tripling its consumption in the United States since the early 1980s. Olive oil continues to be the oil of choice for most cooking applications and the bedrock of our industry. Olive oil is the only food oil that can be consumed directly after it is pressed, with no further refinement.

Canola Oil
Compared to olive oil, canola oil is brand-new. Bred naturally from its parent rapeseed in Canada in the early 1970s, canola oil experts are quick to point out that it is not rapeseed, but rather a whole new cooking medium that contains the lowest saturated fat of any vegetable oil. It is also high in monounsaturated fat and omega-3 fatty acids, and is a rich source of vitamin E. Its name, first coined in 1978, is an acronym for CANadian Oil, Low Acid. Canola oil has a very mild flavor and a high smoking point, attributes that have made it a popular and healthy choice for everyday cooking.

Grape Seed Oil
Grape seed (or grapeseed) oil has become very popular these days because of its high smoke point, mild, unobtrusive flavor and its healthful amounts of antioxidants. Although grapes have been cultivated for thousands of years (about as long as olives), grape seed oil did not come into popular use until the 20th century because there is such a small amount of oil in each seed, making the extraction very difficult. Modern techniques have made it possible for grape seed oil to be in common use today. As one would expect, grape seed oil comes mainly from wine-producing countries — mostly France, Italy and Switzerland — making it a profitable way to use what would otherwise be waste. It is used extensively in all kinds of toiletries and cosmetics, as well as for culinary purposes. Experts caution that although culinary-grade grape seed oil can be used for health and beauty purposes, cosmetics-grade grape seed oil should never be used for cooking as it is processed with chemicals that are not meant for consumption. Grape seed oil is light in color with a slight nutty flavor. It emulsifies very well and is often used in mayonnaise.

Safflower Oil and Sunflower Oil
The sunflower and the safflower are closely related, and the oils extracted from their seeds are virtually interchangeable in cooking applications. Both are light in color, with very little flavor, relatively low in saturated fat and are good for everyday cooking. Sunflower oil has a lower smoking point so is not recommended for deep-frying.

Corn Oil
For a long time, along with generic vegetable oil, corn oil was one of the most common fats used in American kitchens. With its high smoke point, mild flavor and low cost, it’s not surprising that this kind of oil dominated our pantries for so long. Corn oil was first commercially extracted from the germ of the maize plant late in the 19th century by the Hudnut Hominy Company of Terre Haute, Ind. Unless otherwise stated, or certified organic, it can be assumed that corn oil in this country is made from GMO corn, an issue on which the jury is still out but one that raises concerns in the minds of many consumers.

Peanut Oil
Of the 2.4 billion pounds of peanuts consumed in the United States, half of that is in the form of peanut butter. The peanut’s name has been a source of confusion ever since it was first used because they are not nuts at all but rather legumes, or edible seeds encased in a pod, like a pea (they are referred to as “groundnuts” in the U.K.). They are a great source of concentrated protein and are highly nutritional, although they are treated like nuts in the kitchen. Common in the cooking of China and much of South and Southeast Asia, peanut oil is to Asia what olive oil is to the Mediterranean. Peanut oil has a very high smoke point, making it ideal for deep-frying. American peanut oils tend to be very mild in flavor, while those produced in China are more pronounced.

Sesame Oil
This is a highly nutritious and delicious oil that evokes the flavors of the East. Sesame oil has a relatively low smoke point and yet the Japanese often add small amounts to their frying oil for flavor. Sesame oil has been used for thousands of years going back to the ancient Assyrians. It contains low saturated fat but is high in unsaturated fatty acids, making it a healthy choice for cooking and salad dressings.

Avocado Oil
Avocado oil is one of the new darlings of the oil field. It has a very high burn point, making it an excellent choice for frying, and although mild in flavor, it can lend a subtle but delicious nuance to foods when used raw.

Various Nut Oils
Nuts in general, we have come to find out, are very nutritious components of our diets, and the oils made from them are no exception. Oil extracted from walnuts, almonds, pecans and hazelnuts have lower burn points, but are still highly suitable for sautéing and baking, as well as for dressings. They add a distinctive nuttiness to all kinds of dishes, including salads, pasta, fish, meats and even desserts. They can also be drizzled over cooked foods for a flavor boost, especially effective when similar nuts are used in the dish. Nut oils are generally more volatile than other oils and should be kept in cool, dark places, and they should be used up quickly after they are opened.

Butter
Butter, the only non-oil in our group, and the only one so far that is predominantly saturated fat, is ideal for use in sautéing as it browns food so beautifully, and is the pre-eminent fat for baking, lending rich and, well, buttery flavor and texture to foods. Recently, American bakers have discovered the wonderful properties of full-fat (as much as 86 percent) European-style butters. Higher fat content results in fluffier pastry, smoother sauces and less spattering during cooking, because there is less moisture in the butter. Butter is the result of one of Mother Nature’s neater parlor tricks. Fresh cream is an oil-in-water emulsion that usually contains about 40 percent butterfat. By churning the cream or moving it about rapidly, it is transformed into a water-in-oil emulsion. In other words, the fat globules are forced together into a continuous mass with small amounts of water trapped inside. Most of the water is expelled in the form of buttermilk, and the butter that remains contains at least 80 percent butterfat. The burn point of butter can be increased by either clarifying it (slowly heating the butter and skimming off the milk solids) or mixing it with another fat such as olive oil.