-By James Mellgren

Here comes the vinegar man
To help all his vinegar fans
Here comes the vinegar man
To make this a vinegar land
It’s the man of the hour
With his great sour power
In his vinegar dressings
He brings us great blessings
– L.J. Diggs, “The Vinegar Man” (quoted from “The Good Cook’s Book of Oil & Vinegar” by Michele Anna Jordan)

One would think that a sensualist such as Lord Byron would have had a more flattering description for vinegar, which, comparing it to marriage, he called a “sad, sour, sober beverage,” and ultimately “a very homely household savor.” Ari Weinzweig, perhaps no less the sensualist, put it more fairly when he wrote, “Vinegar is the natural conclusion of the winemaking process.” Of course, the sad, sour brew is also anathema to the winemaking process. When hungry little vinegar bacteria are carried by air into contact with fresh wine, they begin to consume the alcohol, leaving acid in its place. Based on my own forays into vinegar-making, I can tell you that any winemaker that discovers a barrel of wine that seems as though it is headed down vinegar road, sends it packing posthaste. In fact, most winemakers, when they found out I was even interested in making vinegar, would send me packing faster than a Depression-era union organizer. While my vinegar-making days are behind me, my enthusiasm for vinegar remains undiminished; and for all the ballyhoo over different types of olive oil and other condiments, for my money, there is no greater investment in the kitchen than a variety of well-made vinegars from around the world.

A Marriage Made in Heaven
The Italians have a saying that it takes four people to make a vinaigrette: a miser to add the vinegar, a spendthrift for the oil, a wise man for the salt and a madman to mix it all together. Oil, of course, and particularly extra virgin olive oil, is the classic partner to vinegar. They are opposites in nature and when they are brought together, they form one of the best possible seasonings for all kinds of dishes — salads naturally, but also cooked vegetables, sandwiches, boiled potatoes, poultry and fish, or simply to dunk one’s bread into. But while I readily acknowledge the wisdom in the adage above, I confess that I am increasingly un-miserly with the vinegar and often make a variety of dressings that leave out oil altogether (gasp!). Also, when I do make classic vinaigrette, I do it the French way and start with a teaspoon of Dijon mustard. My technique for good emulsification is the following: combine the mustard, about a tablespoon of good vinegar (red wine, white wine, Champagne, sherry, apple cider, etc.) and a good pinch of sea salt or kosher salt. Whisk well until it is a creamy consistency and then, while continuing to whisk, pour the olive oil in a thin stream, tasting throughout until it is the right balance. You can also put the whole lot in a clean jam jar and shake like the dickens. If you use the latter method, start with a small amount of oil, taste, and add more as needed.

More and more, however, as I try to simplify so many things in my life, I go for a fresher, simpler approach to dressing salads. Typically these days, I will wash and dry the best and freshest greens I can get, drizzle them with my vinegar du jour, sometimes a squeeze of lemon, a pinch of salt and a drizzle of olive oil. Then I toss the whole thing with my hands and serve. Or, as I said, we omit the oil and start with a base of crème fraîche or yogurt to which we add vinegar. Again, use the kind of vinegar that suits your mood. Want it on the sweeter side? Use balsamic, apple cider, or a fig and balsamic vinegar. Want it on the dry side? Use sherry vinegar. More tart? Try good red wine vinegar. Best of all, try several varieties until you find the one you like best. It’s important, though, to always include some kind of fat with your greens, as studies have shown that fat allows us to glean nutrients from greens. In other words, a dry salad is only so much roughage but no vitamins.

The Vinegar Pantry
Man, and woman, can’t live by salad alone (well, actually, you probably could but it would get tedious), and vinegar transcends any one use in the kitchen. I keep it on hand for all sorts of dishes, used both in the cooking process and added to cooked food. For this reason, I like to keep a variety of vinegars around all the time. Admittedly, I get a lot of samples sent to me so my assortment is sometimes enormous, but even if I didn’t, I would always keep a basic selection on hand, the indispensables: red wine vinegar, some sort of white vinegar (white wine, cava or Champagne), apple cider vinegar, sherry vinegar and balsamic vinegar (the medium priced level). That group covers a lot of culinary ground. Lately, my wife has taken to using rice wine vinegar as well, especially in Asian cooking. She combines it with fish sauce, lime and chilies for lovely and delicious dipping sauces for dim sum, pot stickers, etc. I also have several flavored and varietal wine vinegars (here is where the samples come in), such as the aforementioned Savory Fig & Balsamic, Dark Cherry Balsamic, and Pinot Noir Vinegar (all from Lucini); and a spectacular Balsamic Honey Vinegar from Honey Ridge Farms. Even though I’m not normally drawn to flavored vinegars, I have come to like all of the above very much. They can add nuance to dishes and keep flavors varied.

Having a variety of vinegars allows you to match the flavor to what you are cooking; for example, lighter styles (like white wine, Champagne or cider vinegars) work well for delicate fish like sole and baby spring vegetables; fruitier styles (balsamic or some of the above flavored ones) for pork and poultry; and tart wine vinegars (red wine and sherry vinegars) for fattier dishes and deglazing. Encouraging your customers to explore the world of vinegars will result in higher sales, which in turn will allow you to carry a broader and more interesting selection. Once your shoppers get accustomed to using an array of vinegars, they will be curious to try others. To aid them in their exploration of the world of vinegars, consider having regular vinegar-tasting demos. Offer two or three at a time by placing a small amount in small white bowls with cubes of plain bread for dipping. Also consider carrying a selection of smaller-sized bottles so customers can try out new vinegars without as big a commitment. They will appreciate it.

Vinegars to me are the unsung heroes of the kitchen. A small amount can enliven a dish more than almost any other ingredient, and as I’ve pointed out, the variations of flavors and styles are virtually endless. Vinegar is a key component of the much hyped Mediterranean Diet, and it is great for regular dieters, too, as it can add tremendous flavor to dull, low-calorie dishes like poached chicken and fish, steamed vegetables, pasta, and rice, to name a few, without rocking the calorie boat. Vinegar, I should also point out, happens to be very good for you. Including a bit of vinegar in your diet every day can be beneficial in a variety of ways, including for your circulation, heart health, skin, eyes, digestion and overall health. I could go on and on with all the benefits of consuming vinegar, but I will instead direct you to the books mentioned in the sidebar if you are so inclined. Vinegar, in my humble opinion, is as essential in the kitchen as salt and pepper; at least it is in mine. Do yourself, your customers and your bottom line a favor, and take a long look at your vinegar selection and see how it stacks up. In my mind, this sad, sour, sober beverage is the most beautiful household savor of all.

Carrot & Onion Pickle
This is from my first cookbook, “César: Recipes From a Tapas Bar” (Ten Speed Press), and is part of a dish called Mussels Escabeche by César chef Maggie Pond. The pickle, which makes up half the recipe, is also great as a general accompaniment for all kinds of sandwiches, burritos, omelets, salads and soups, so I’m including it here by itself since vinegar is a featured ingredient. It will keep for up to a month in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

3 sprigs thyme
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
5 carrots, peeled lengthwise, and sliced ⅛-inch thick on the diagonal
2 yellow onions, cut into thick juliennes
2 jalapeño chilies, halved lengthwise and stems removed
½ cup sugar
2 tablespoons salt
¼ cup sherry vinegar
2 cups distilled vinegar
4 cups water
1 tablespoon dried red chili flakes

To make the pickle, wrap the thyme, peppercorns and bay leaf in cheesecloth, and tie with a string. In a large nonreactive pot, combine the cheesecloth bundle, carrots, onions, jalapeños, sugar, salt, both vinegars and water. Bring to a boil, turn down to a simmer and cook until the carrots and onions are tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and take out the cheesecloth bundle and discard. Add the chili flakes to the vegetables and chill.

Creamy Herb Sauce
My wife first made this to go with poached salmon. It was excellent. Since then, we have found it to be good with all kinds of fish and poultry, and if you thin it out a bit with good olive oil, it makes a nice creamy salad dressing, too. Note that the amounts are estimates and you don’t have to hold too slavishly to them. Go with what looks right to you. Also, when buying rice wine vinegar, be sure to check the label as they can have all kinds of bizarre ingredients.

1 cup crème fraîche
1 handful fresh basil
1 handful fresh cilantro
A couple of tablespoons rice wine vinegar
Place all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse until it is a smooth, green, creamy consistency. Use immediately or seal in a container and refrigerate.

A Trio for the Vinegar Library
“Zingerman’s Guide to Good Vinegar” by Ari Weinzweig

This is part of a series of pamphlets that may be compiled into book form one of these days. It provides firsthand information about some of the world’s great vinegars, vinegar-makers and also some very good recipes. Available from www.zingermans.com.

“The Good Cook’s Book of Oil & Vinegar” by Michele Anna Jordan

This one is out of print (Addison Wesley Publishing) but can still be found relatively easily. It’s well worth the search for the excellent information and recipes.

“Vim & Vinegar” by Melodie Moore

The author has compiled hundreds of uses for vinegar — from cleaning to home remedies, as well as a big recipe section and instruction for making vinegar at home. From Harper Perennial (www.harpercollins.com).