-By James Mellgren

There is little doubt in my mind that the thin slices of red-tinged, exquisitely marbled, air-cured ham provide one with the unmistakable, quintessential taste of Spain. More so than olives or sherry or the red wine that flows at every meal in every province. More so than cheese or even paella, a regional dish that has come to symbolize the country and its cuisine. Through all my travels in Spain, it was the flavor of the ham that stuck with me, haunted me and induced me to herald its merits as passionately as I have for cheese and olive oil, two other products from Spain that I adore. One encounters jamón everywhere, from the top restaurants to truck stops, and certainly it is a star in every tapas bar in the land. What I didn’t realize in my first encounters with jamón, but have come to appreciate very much since then, is the range of variety, quality and flavor in the hams, from the delicious and ubiquitous jamón Serrano to the crème de la crème of Spanish ham, jamón Ibérico de bellota. Recently, I was fortunate enough to be invited to a private tasting of a range of Spanish hams (my job does have its perks) at the home of Fermin USA’s national sales manager, Alberto Solis. All three of the products were produced in Spain by Embutidos Fermín, a family-owned company in La Alberca (the province of Salamanca) that was founded in 1956 by Fermín Martín. It was an eye- and palate-opening experience.

Jamón I Am
Although jamón means ham in Spanish, the succulent air-cured hams of Spain are as different from American hams as beef Wellington is from steak tartare. It’s not that one is necessarily better than the other — I, for one, love them all — but different they are, from the type of pig used to how they are cured and aged. They differ, too, in how they are typically consumed. Except maybe for certain areas in the South, our hams are not usually thought of as everyday fare, whereas most of the Spanish eat some type of jamón as a daily staple food, and as I said before, it is ubiquitous on tapas menus throughout the country. Also, although jamón can be used in cooking, it is usually eaten by itself, accompanied by a few olives, some bread and a glass of wine. The three hams I tasted — jamón Serrano, paleta Ibérico and jamón Ibérico de bellota — were representative of the range of products produced by Fermín, even though technically one wasn’t a ham but a shoulder, the paleta. In an attempt to sort out some of the confusion about Spanish hams, the following is a primer (note that the information below refers mainly to the products from Embutidos Fermín).
• Jamón Serrano. Serrano means “of the mountains” and refers to this general type of ham made throughout the Sierras in southwestern Spain. Most of the jamón Serrano that comes to the United States is made from hogs that have been raised and slaughtered in Denmark, with the hams cured and aged in Spain. Embutidos Fermín was the first Spanish slaughterhouse to be granted USDA approval for export to the United States, and it is the only producer to make this ham from native Serrano white pigs that are born, raised, slaughtered and cured in Spain. Serrano pigs’ origin lies in the Sierra Mountains. Additionally, pigs from northern Europe are typically slaughtered at 5 to 6 months whereas the Serrano pigs in Spain are slaughtered at 9 to 10 months, and aged for a minimum of 20 months, resulting in succulent, well-marbled hams.
• Paleta Serrano. Paleta refers to the shoulder blade and so it differs from ham in that it is made from the front leg rather than the rear. The paleta from Fermín is also made from native Serrano pigs.
• Paleta Ibérico and Jamón Ibérico. These two, from the front leg and rear leg, respectively, come from a different breed of pig, Ibérico, one that is also native to this area of Spain and a direct descendent of wild boars. The Ibérico pig is distinguished by its black feet, hence their nickname pata negra, although it’s important to note that not all Ibérico pigs have black feet and some pigs that are not Ibérico do. They are characterized by long, thin and strong legs, sparse black hair, a pointed snout, and a short, meaty neck. They are raised in a relatively free-range atmosphere where they have plenty of room to roam and are fed a completely natural diet. They are cured for 28 months.

• Paleta Ibérico de Bellota and Jamón Ibérico de Bellota. These are two of the most highly esteemed hams in the world, and for my money, they are simply without equal. Both of these are made from Ibérico pigs. They are raised, slaughtered and cured in Spain, but what really sets them apart is what happens to them in the final few months before they are slaughtered. In the fall, typically November through January (the Montanera season), the lucky pigs that are chosen are set out into the Dehesa, an indigenous forest in southwestern Spain, to roam freely and to feast on the acorns (bellota) that fall from the oak trees. Here, the pigs will put on up to 80 percent of their body fat, eating almost 2 pounds of acorns a day. Because they have to move about through the Dehesa, they also get abundant exercise. Rules governing the production of jamón Ibérico de bellota require that there be at least 2.5 acres per animal for foraging. This is also why a producer can’t just opt to increase production when they feel like it. More and more of the Dehesa is being reclaimed, however (much of it has been converted to commercial agricultural land), and the pigs play a vital role in protecting the eco-system of the forest, which is also home to a great many wild animals, including wolves, boars, rabbits, cattle, etc. Ibérico pigs also have the ability to store a great deal of fat and have it penetrate the muscle of the animal, resulting in a ham that has beautiful marbling throughout. A curious thing also happens to the fat as the animals forage and throughout the curing process: the fat becomes mainly heart-healthy mono-unsaturated, which is why these pigs are sometimes referred to as “olive trees with legs.” I could see where the fat was dripping down from the ham onto the stand. It was a pool of liquid fat — just like olive oil — that remains liquid at room temperature. The flavor of these hams is unbelievable. The meat practically melts in your mouth, and it is sweet and nutty. Jamón Ibérico de bellota are cured for three years, the longest of any air-cured ham

Of course, hams from the Ibérico breed are more expensive than regular Serrano hams but there are many reasons, all of which add up to great flavor and a very special product indeed. The breed is only found in Spain and, because they have a much higher fat content, there is naturally more waste during production as the hams cure. They are far more complex to produce, require greater skill and experience, and the bellota varieties have the additional requirement of 2.5 acres of land per animal. But as my friend Alberto pointed out, you don’t so much eat Ibérico ham as you experience it. I sincerely hope that you and your customers have the opportunity to experience some very soon.

For more information about the hams of Embutidos Fermín or Fermín USA, please visit www.ferminiberico.com.

Tomato Toast With Serrano or Ibérico Ham
The best way to enjoy these extraordinary hams is to eat them as is, perhaps accompanied by some good bread and a glass of wine. However, the simple recipe here, graciously provided by José Andrés, Spain’s unofficial culinary ambassador to the United States and the author of “Tapas: A Taste of Spain in America,” is a classic dish that allows the flavor of the ham to shine through. He offers two methods: a more traditional way and a handy modern technique.

Serves 4
4 slices rustic bread
2 ripe tomatoes
Spanish extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling
Salt to taste
4 thin slices of Serrano ham or Ibérico ham, preferably from Fermín

Traditional Method
Toast the bread. Cutting tomatoes in half, rub each piece of toast until covered by grated tomato. Drizzle liberally with olive oil and season with salt. Top with a nice slice of ham and then another drizzle of olive oil. Serve and eat.

Modern Method
Halve tomatoes and grate open face with a cheese grater over a mixing bowl. Discard the skins. Add three tablespoons of olive oil to the tomato and season with salt to taste. Toast bread and then quickly spoon the tomato over the toasts. Place a slice of ham on each, drizzle with another touch of olive oil and serve.