All Cheese Considered
SIAL Montréal 2008
Wending my way north once again this spring, I journeyed to Montréal for the fifth edition of the SIAL Montréal International Food Exhibition, an annual event now since 2007. With clear skies and the warmth of spring in the air, my experience in Québec was very different than last year when winter still clung heavily to the air and to the ground. The venue for the exhibit, the Palais des congrès de Montréal (why does that sound so much more regal than convention center?), is located adjacent to the old part of the city with its narrow cobblestone streets, historical structures (many dating back to the early 18th century), tourist shops, and some very fine restaurants, all of which made for lovely walks between sessions at the trade fair. As to the exhibition itself, it was once again a sort of mini version of SIAL in Paris, and although it is truly an international show, there was certainly a greater emphasis on Canada and especially Québec, which accounted for over 60 percent of the 250 Canadian companies exhibiting. Additionally, more than 30 other countries were exhibiting, nine of which had their own pavilions, including the usual suspects, the U.S., France, Italy and Spain.

In addition to all the extracurricular activities going on throughout the show that included fashion shows for professional uniforms, bartender demonstrations, conferences on molecular gastronomy, the international Olive d'Or competition, and various other culinary demonstrations, I spent a good amount of time in Trends & Innovations, an exhibit familiar to SIAL Paris attendees. Here is where the most intriguing products are chosen and displayed so that one can get a quick glimpse of the newest and most interesting products before heading out onto the show floor. Awards are given to the most innovative products, innovation that can include packaging, recipes, processing techniques and so on. The winners included Theobroma chocolat from Vigneault chocolatier Ltée, Arthur's Smoothies from Arthur Goji Plus, Organic Fruit Sauces from La Mère Poule, a variety of great rabbit sausages from Les Lapins de Stanstead, Olive et Cucina, an interesting line of classic sauces in sealed, heat-and-serve bags from Spécialités MB Inc., and many more. I checked out all of the above at their individual stands and in every case could see why they received an award.

I saw quite a few other wonderful products at the show, and again, I mainly focused on Canadian companies that I may not have seen before. If this show is any indication -- and I believe it is -- there is a lot of great gourmet food production going on chez our northern neighbor, most of which rivals anything going on here. For example, I stopped by the stand for Woolwich Dairy and Fromagerie Madame-Chèvre, home to some fabulous goat cheeses, and discovered a distributor there that handles a whole gamut of artisanal cheeses such as Fromagerie Fritz Kaiser, including a Morbier-like Le Douanier and a haunting Le Soeur Angèle which was indeed angelic. Kaiser also makes a superb Raclette in keeping with his Swiss heritage. Other cheese producers included Fromagerie Domaine Féodal with their seductive bloomy-rind cheeses; Fromagerie FX Pichet, makers of a very good raw-milk Réserve la Pérade, a creamy, semi-soft cheese with hints of caramel; Fromagerie de l'Abbaye St-Benoit, who make very nice blues called Ermite and Bénédictin; Fromagerie La Voie Lactée; and, of course, Fromagerie Madame-Chèvre with their new line of artisanal goat cheeses, Tre Fratello, Capella, and Castille, all soft goat cheeses with bloomy rinds and ash. I also came across Skotidakis Goat Farm, makers of a fine Greek-style yogurt in a variety of flavors, including honey, blueberries and strawberries.

Of course, it wasn't all cheese and dairy. Among the other companies I visited was Wonder Berry with a delicious line of cranberry-based drinks that were paired with a variety of berries and other fruits. They were so refreshing and authentic-tasting -- an oasis amongst all the other food. They said they were actively seeking U.S. distributors. Le Grand is a line of savory sauces in pouches, divided up in the following categories: Pestos, Tapenades, and Aromatic Sauces. The Garden Pesto I tried tasted like fresh basil, as though it had just been prepared. Aliments La Bourgeoise treated me to a tasting of delicious breaded cheesy hors d'oeuvres such as Cheese & Jalapeño, Cheese & Pesto, Heart-shaped Parmesan, and several others. They can be heated up and served, and they taste fresh and just-made. For dessert, I sampled the line of sorbets from Solo Fruit, all of which were redolent of fresh fruit from the Caribbean.

All of this and much, much more can be seen and experienced just a short plane ride north. For people in the Northeast, this should be a no-brainer. Even for me, coming from the West Coast, it's very easy to get to Montréal (Air Canada, by the way, was an exceptional, well-run airline in my experience). It's now an annual event so get thee hence to Montréal, and get a taste of Canada and the rest of the world. I'm sure you won't be disappointed. And I know you won't come away hungry.

Industry News
European Imports Acquires Village Imports
European Imports Ltd. (EIL), a Chicago-based importer and distributor, has announced the purchase of the distribution company M.I.F. (dba Village Imports), a California corporation that imports and distributes over 2,500 specialty products to high-end foodservice accounts. Founded in 1988, Village Imports operates from a 46,000-square-foot warehouse in Brisbane in the San Francisco area. EIL will add its product mix to the Village Imports brand and expand distribution to the retail sector. The sales force will continue to be headed by Phillippe Lefour who has been with Village Imports since its inception. The distribution area ranges from the Napa Valley to Carmel Valley and from San Francisco to Sacramento, an area not currently in the EIL portfolio. EIL currently has warehousing and distribution facilities in Chicago, Phoenix, Atlanta and Dallas. EIL was established in 1978 as an importer and distributor of fine French cheeses, and is still owned and operated by the Binstein family.

New Culinary Manager for WMMB
The Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board (WMMB) has announced that sales and marketing professional Sara Hill has joined the team as culinary manager. Her responsibilities will include working with professional cooking schools, chefs and retailers around the country to increase their knowledge and usage of Wisconsin cheese. Hill began her career in the kitchen after graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. She was a chef in hotels and country clubs in New York, Arizona and Minnesota before switching to sales for a cheese importer. A former partner/owner of specialty cheese distributor Classic Provisions in Minneapolis, Hill was most recently the national sales manager for Carr Valley Cheese in LaValle, Wis., one of the country's most awarded cheese producers. Hill currently serves on the board of directors of the American Cheese Society and previously was a director on the board of the Dairy Business Innovation Center in Madison.

DCI Cheese Awarded for Excellence Twice at IDFA
DCI Cheese Company was awarded two "Achieving Excellence" Gold awards at the 2008 International Dairy Foods Association (IDFA) SmartMarketing Conference in New Orleans this spring for Best Overall Website and Best Overall Package Design (for their Nikos Feta). DCI's Web site, which we've reported on in this column, provides an abundance of information regarding DCI brands, company history, a cheese glossary, entertaining and recipe ideas, and industry news. The site also includes enhanced graphics and improved navigation. The new, more contemporary packaging for Nikos Feta includes a Grecian font, the tagline "Robust Mediterranean," stylized pictures of a Greek pillar, and a rolling Mediterranean wave to reflect the rich history of this cheese category. For more information about DCI Cheese Company, go to www.dcicheeseco.com.



Lactalis USA Awarded for Outstanding Design of Rondelé Packaging
Lactalis USA, one of the leading manufacturers of specialty cheeses in the United States and Europe, has received a 2008 Achieving Excellence Award for the 2007 packaging redesign of its rondelé brand gourmet spreadable cheeses. The awards, sponsored by the International Dairy Foods Association (IDFA) and Dairy Foods Magazine, are given annually in recognition of outstanding marketing and advertising efforts within the dairy industry. The IDFA recognized the rondelé redesign for its visual distinction, fresh and exciting outdoor imagery, and focus on fresh ingredients. Lactalis also added the Président logo to the outer sleeve to signify an established tradition of fine cheesemaking. Président, the number one brand of cheese in France, is one of the most respected dairy product brand names worldwide with distribution in 140 countries. For more information about Lactalis USA, go to www.lactalis-usa.com or www.presidentcheese.com.

Dairy
New "Idiot's Guide to Cheese" Not So Idiotic
While I am not usually drawn to a book that professes to be written for the complete idiot, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the people behind The Complete Idiot's Guide to Cheeses of the World (Alpha/Penguin Group) are anything but idiots. Steve Ehlers is a knowledgeable and highly respected cheese man who is also the owner of Larry's Brown Deer Market in Milwaukee, Wis., an unassuming store that happens to have -- in a state renowned for its cheeses -- one of the best cheese selections in the country. His co-author, Jeanette Hurt, is also a cheese connoisseur as well as an award-winning writer. Together, they have penned a very readable and informative reference book that should be a welcome addition to any serious cheese library. A new cheese book is always a welcome thing, of course, and especially one that is so up-to-date and so celebratory of American artisanal cheeses as this one is. The book amply covers the basics -- how cheese is made, types of milk, a history of cheese and descriptions of the principal types of cheese. The chapter on "Old World Favorites" features individual sections on the major cheesemaking countries of France, Italy, the UK, Switzerland, Iberia and so on. Then the authors present a chapter on America and the rest of the New World, including separate sections on the big three cheesemaking states of Wisconsin, California and Vermont. Part Four of the book has to do with more practical matters for consumers -- shopping, storing, tasting, pairing and cooking with cheese. They even include a final chapter on making cheese at home with recipes for yogurt, fresh ricotta, mascarpone and crème fraîche. All in all, this is perhaps the most practical cheese books to come out in a long while. It will help take much of the mystery out of understanding and selecting cheese for the average consumer, which, after all, will be a great boon for cheesemongers as well. For more information, visit www.idiotsguides.com.


UK's Largest Independent Cheesemaker Bringing 100-Year-Old Cheddar to U.S. Market
Wyke Farms, the UK's largest independent cheese producer and milk processor, has announced plans to bring its award-winning farmhouse cheddar and butter to the United States. A traditional family farm set on a rolling 1,500 acres in Somerset, England, the Clothier family has been producing farmhouse cheese and butter from the same family recipe for more than 100 years. They will introduce a full range of cheese and dairy products here in the U.S. including a variety of vintage and mature cheddars: Just Delicious Extra Mature Cheddar, Rich & Creamy Mature Cheddar, Simply Gorgeous Vintage Cheddar, So Mellow Mild Cheddar, TNT Aged Cheddar, and Village Oak Vintage 18-month-old Cheddar, Leskol Cheddar (a half-fat cheddar with only 1.3% saturated fat), and Wyke's Truly Scrumptious Farmhouse Butter. Although Wyke Farms has one of the most high-tech production facilities in Europe, the family holds true to the original philosophy that the key to their products' unique flavor lies in the milk and the unique family recipes. For more information, visit www.wykefarms.com and www.leskol.com.
CLICK VENDOR LINK NO. 401


Alpine Lace Deli Cheese Updates Design and Slice Size
Alpine Lace Deli Cheese has been transformed with an updated slice size, logo and packaging in response to growing consumer demand for healthy, premium products with great value. The updated packaging was designed for a more appetizing, fresh and healthy-looking appearance, and to better communicate the 25 percent reduced fat message. The new 0.80-ounce slices in Alpine Lace Deli Cheese pre-sliced shingle packs bring added consumer value and convenience. The thinner slices offer better portion control and cater to the 78 percent of consumers who are trying to eat healthier. Alpine Lace Deli Cheese offers a premium line of reduced-fat and reduced-sodium deli cheeses in the following varieties: Swiss, Provolone, Muenster, Mozzarella, Cheddar, American and Co-Jack. MSRP is $4.49 for 8 ounces. For more information or for recipes, go to www.alpinelace.com.
CLICK VENDOR LINK NO. 404

Equipment

New Hand-Built, Renewable Wood Merchandisers From Greenwood
The new solid wood, hand-built merchandisers from Greenwood are designed to attract customers, perform beautifully and reduce our demand on our eco-system, wood being the only renewable building material. The handcrafted merchandisers use energy-efficient equipment to reduce energy use, and can be combined with other green building materials such as counter surfaces, low voltage lighting, and sustainably harvested wood. They are delivered efficiently direct from the warehouse without unnecessary travel, warehousing or added distribution costs. For more information, call 978-766-0132 or go to www.greenwoodcrafters.com.
CLICK VENDOR LINK NO. 408

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