-By James Mellgren

When I think of England, I think of many things — history and theatre, Shakespeare and Harry Potter, and about half my ancestors, just to name a few. But when I think of England and food, I think first of cheese, glorious cheese (well, maybe right after sticky toffee pudding, which incidentally goes quite well with English cheese). I love English cheeses because they are so earthy and delicious; because there are so many of them today made on farms from carefully tended herds of dairy animals; because they pair so well with so many foods and beverages; and, as I have increasingly become aware, because they are so varied in form, texture, flavor and even in the type of milk. It is also interesting to me that the resurgence of specialty and farmhouse cheeses in England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales over the past 30 years has so closely paralleled our own.

Cheesemaking has flourished in Britain since Roman times, and many of the most well-known regional monikers — Cheddar, Cheshire, Stilton, etc. — were established by the 17th century, but the dawn of the railroad, the industrial revolution, and two world wars all added to the decline of rural cheesemaking; and years of rationing and a general lack of cheesemakers after the Second World War further diminished the state of farmhouse and specialty cheeses through the 1950s and 1960s. Like our own cheese culture, the British cheese renaissance began in earnest in the 1970s, and from that point onward, the growth of specialty cheesemaking in the United Kingdom mirrored that of the United States. The Irish Farmhouse Cheesemakers Association was formed in 1983 (the same year as the American Cheese Society or ACS) and Britain’s Specialist Cheesemaker Association began in 1989. The British Cheese Awards, which began in 1994, had about 300 entries the first year and are now up to around 900 (ditto the ACS, which this year set a new record with 1,327 entries). Recession or no recession, it’s a great time to be in the cheese business.

While on a recent holiday in England, I visited two great cheese shops — one in London and one in Bath — both of which specialize in cheeses of the British Isles. The first, Neal’s Yard Dairy (NYD) in London, is one I’ve visited and written about before, and have looked forward to visiting again. Founded in 1979, the business is named for the courtyard in Covent Garden where the first shop was located (it moved in 1992 to Shorts Garden just outside of Neal’s Yard). In 1996, it opened its second location in Borough Market, a fabulous covered marketplace on the other side of the Thames behind Southwark cathedral near London Bridge. It was the Borough Market location where I revisited this iconic cheese store. NYD’s selection is almost entirely comprised of British and Irish cheeses. The few exceptions are classic staples like Parmigiano-Reggiano, Brie de Meaux, Italian mozzarella and a few others. One enters NYD through an anteroom that offers on one wall complementary goods like pasta, olive oils, vinegar, biscuits, a few sauces, chutneys, preserves, honey and so on, all carefully selected and of the highest quality. The opposing wall features a dairy case filled with local milk, butter, farm eggs and excellent house-made Greek-style yoghurt, among other items. Behind the checkout counter is a beautiful array of breads from local bakers. But the main event is inside where one encounters giant displays of cheeses everywhere — on the long stone-topped counter, on the back counter and on floor-to-ceiling shelves along one wall. In a corner is a large barrel standing on end and filled with water, with a large showerhead continually recycling the water to keep up the humidity in the room. The entire room is kept at a low temperature so that the cheeses in all their glory can sit about in comfortable repose. The overall feeling is like being inside a working dairy room, which in essence you are. The staff encourages customers to taste everything. If one is interested in Cheddar, for example, several brands and ages will be offered up on the point of a knife for sampling before a choice is made. Owner Randolph Hodgson personally travels about the country, visiting cheesemakers and selecting the cheese that will become part of the NYD inventory. Most cheeses are selected young and matured in the NYD aging rooms before being released for sale. NYD not only supplies its eager and enthusiastic clientele in the two shops, but also caters to restaurants and other shops throughout the United Kingdom, as well as exporting to continental Europe, Asia and North America. NYD is easily one of the finest cheese shops I’ve ever visited.

I had long wanted to visit The Fine Cheese Company in Bath, having first become aware of it through its brilliant line of eponymous cheese crackers that I had seen and tasted at the Fancy Food Show. Located in the heart of the utterly enchanting city of Bath with its Georgian architecture and Roman baths, I was equally enchanted by The Fine Cheese Co. and its owner, Ann-Marie Dyas, who greeted us so warmly. Although this company, too, focuses on British cheeses, it differs from NYD in a variety of ways. First, the shop is cozier and more elegant with beautiful dark wood cabinets and shelves, and a wonderful selection of complementary goods lining the walls, including sweets, biscuits, condiments, wine and its full line of crackers (it also had, as I only discovered upon my return home, the most delicious Turkish Delight I have ever tasted. In fact, I had never particularly liked the confection until this one), and an adjoining café. It offers a broader selection of European cheeses than NYD, such as a perfectly ripe Vacherin Mont d’Or, Brie de Meaux and Comté. More importantly, however, is its focus — due to its location in Somerset — on the cheeses of the West Country, cheeses like Cornish Blue, Ticklemore Goat, Dorset Blue and Bath Soft. In fact, when we met with Ann-Marie, she was just preparing to go visit the nearby Montgomery’s Manor Farm to taste some Cheddar. I strongly urge anyone traveling anywhere near the West Country to visit Bath and The Fine Cheese Co., as well as its stand at one of the Fancy Food Shows. Both of these shops epitomize the glory of the cheese trade, characterized by stunning visual merchandising, outstanding selections and an obvious passion for what they do, a passion that is clearly evident in everyone who works there, even the young fellow who served us in Bath who had only been on the job for three days. What he lacked in knowledge of the individual cheeses, he more than made up for with his eagerness to learn and his overall enthusiasm.

INDUSTRY NEWS

SIAL Canada 2010 Positioned for Leading-Edge Programs and Products
The seventh edition of Canada’s leading international food and beverage exhibition, SIAL Canada, “The North American Food Marketplace,” is scheduled to open its doors April 21-23, 2010. Formerly SIAL Montreal, “this new name confirms the Canadian positioning of the trade show and enhances its leadership in creating business opportunities for both agrifood industry buyers and suppliers,” affirms Xavier Poncin, SIAL Canada’s managing director. “The trade show has become a reference and a yearly meeting point for the agrifood sector.”

The 2010 edition promises to be more innovative than ever before with top conferences, workshops and live demonstrations focusing on consumer insight and trends, all designed to keep food industry professionals on top of the fast-moving industry. A new educational conference program specifically geared toward food buyers will address current industry topics with an emphasis on health and nutrition. For the first time at SIAL Canada 2010, the “Cuisine du SIAL Canada” event will debut during the three-day exhibition. Inspired by the successful program in SIAL Paris, Cuisine du SIAL Canada will become a focal point for the culinary arts, enabling renowned chefs to demonstrate their skills and inventiveness to visitors. The United States and Canada have the largest bilateral trading relationship in the world. U.S.-Canadian bilateral agricultural trade reached $34.1 billion in 2008, which amounts to 7,000 truckloads of agricultural products crossing the border each day.

The exhibit profile of SIAL Canada 2010 includes alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages; cured meats; canned goods; grocery; delicatessen items; produce; ingredients and additives; organic products; seafood; diet products and dietary supplements; children’s food items; dairy products and eggs; sweets, cookies and bakery products; frozen foods; foodservice products; meat and offal; and fresh poultry and game.

SET Canada, the national equipment show dedicated to the food retail and foodservice sectors, will again be collocated with SIAL Canada.

SIAL Canada 2010 is supported by the governments of Canada and Quebec through Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada and the Ministère de l’Agriculture des Pêcheries et de l’Alimentation du Québec, and endorsed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The show is produced by Paris-based Comexposium, the No. 1 trade show organizer in France. SIAL Canada is one of the five SIAL exhibitions organized in the world, the largest being held in Paris since 1964. For more information on the SIAL trade exhibitions, contact Rebecca Long at Imex Management, U.S. representative, at 704-365-0041, e-mail RebeccaL@ImexManagement.com or go to www.sialcanada.com.

Hot Off the Press: “What’s in Store 2010”
The International Dairy-Deli-Bakery Association (IDDBA) has once again published its annual trends report, “What’s in Store 2010.” This invaluable tome is packed with information about category trends, sales data, department growth, consumer buying behavior and trends. Each major area — bakery, cheese, dairy and deli — is covered in depth with figures on growth, shopper profiles and trends. The State of the Industry report offers a comprehensive look at all the major retail outlets, as well as important data on technology, marketing, private label, packaging, the green movement, food safety, food and flavor trends, the international scene, and much more. The unique Consumer Lifestyles section defines who and where the customers are, how they want to spend their money, and studies a variety of consumer issues such as meal choices, healthy eating habits (or lack thereof), salt, nutritional labels, organics, functional foods, kosher and halal, and food allergies. This book is a must-have for buyers, category managers, merchandisers and store managers. Employees of IDDBA member companies can get the book for just $99 (plus shipping and handling), a $300 saving (the official voting representative for each company receives one free with member dues). To get one, or for more information, call Jeremy at 608-310-5000 (order code #2019) or go to www.iddba.org.

DAIRY

Finlandia Cheese Inc. is Now Valio USA
Finlandia Cheese Inc. has announced its new corporate name, Valio USA, a change prompted in large part by the company’s recent entry into the dairy innovations market, a change that better encompasses the company’s identity and expanding product line. Christopher Franco has been named CEO of Valio USA, John Sottile will be president of the company’s Finlandia Cheese Division, and Lawrence Morris is the marketing director of the new Health Dairy Division. Valio USA is a subsidiary of Valio Ltd., founded in 1905, the largest food company in Finland and one of the most dominant forces in the global dairy industry. For more information about Valio USA, Finlandia Cheese or Healthy Dairy Division, visit www.valiousa.com.


“In a Cheesemaker’s Kitchen” by Allison Hooper
Allison Hooper began making goat cheese while living and working on an organic family farm in France as a college student in the late 1970s. In 1984, with Bob Reese, she founded Vermont Butter & Cheese Company, and has been “crafting artisanal dairy products in the European style through a vital link with local farms” ever since, winning countless awards and accolades along the way. Now, Hooper has published her first book, “In a Cheesemaker’s Kitchen” (The Countryman Press), a mix of history, insights, pairings and recipes. In addition to offering her expertise on “the centuries-old tradition of making and enjoying cheese,” the book offers personal stories by well-known food people, including chef Eric Ripert of Le Bernadine and Mireille Guiliano, author of “French Women Don’t Get Fat,” as well as a foreword by august cheesemonger and author Steven Jenkins. The cheese, butter and other dairy products made by Vermont Butter & Cheese Co. continue to astound me with their brilliant flavor and texture, and the obvious care with which they are made. Hooper has been a real pioneer in the artisanal cheesemaking business and an ardent supporter of the American Cheese Society and cheesemakers in general. Her book will be a must-read for all cheese professionals and cheese lovers. For more information, go to www.countrymanpress.com.
CLICK VENDOR LINK NO. 401


BelGioioso Cheese Wins Big With CreamyGorg
CreamyGorg® from BelGioioso Cheese earned a Bronze medal at the recent World Cheese Awards. This original blue-veined cheese is produced by the company’s master cheesemakers and hand-washed with brine during its 90-day aging. The hands-on process further deepens its flavor and creates a soft, spreadable cheese with a creamy, subtle earthiness, and full aroma. Visit booth 4321 at the upcoming Winter Fancy Food show to sample CreamyGorg®, along with BelGioioso’s entire line of classic Italian cheeses. For more information, call 877-863-2123, e-mail info@belgioioso.com or go to www.belgioioso.com.
CLICK VENDOR LINK NO. 404

Fond O’ Foods Presents Fond O’ Fondue
Beautifully presented in its own reusable, ceramic, ecological crock, Fond O’ Fondue is a wonderful and convenient way of indulging in gourmet cheese fondue. New from Fond O’ Foods, Fond O’ Fondue is a fully prepared fondue kit made with the finest ingredients. Simply heat and serve; it’s ready in minutes. Fond O’ Fondue can be prepared in the microwave or in a conventional oven. The natural, ceramic crock provides an excellent presentation at your table; it can be reused for baking soufflés, gratins, crème brûlée, etc.; or can be used as a serving piece. It also makes a great gift. Fond O’ Fondue comes in three delicious flavors: Classic Swiss Cheese, Alpine Mountain Cheese, and With Alpine Herbs. Serve with bite-sized chunks of crusty and whole grain breads, your favorite veggies, potatoes, meats, and more. Each Fond O’ Fondue kit serves four people as an appetizer or two as a main course. For more information, call 209-267-5867 or go to www.fondofoods.com.
CLICK VENDOR LINK NO. 407


Laura Chenel’s Chèvre Launches Blossom
A new product line from California cheesemaker Laura Chenel’s Chèvre has recently been launched into national distribution. The new Blossom line features fresh goat cheese surrounding a heart of sweet and savory flavor. Blossom flavor blends include Sun-dried Tomato, Fig & Olive, and Basil & Olive Oil. Each 3.5-ounce cheese medallion with its colorful center is clearly visible in an elegant package for retail and deli display, priced at $4.99-$5.99.

“We created Blossom for everyday occasions,” says Marie Lesoudier, general manager of Laura Chenel’s Chèvre. “Blossom highlights our fresh, rich-tasting Sonoma County goat’s milk cheese creating a beautiful synergy with local flavors from the Wine Country.” Located in Sonoma, Calif., Laura Chenel’s Chèvre upholds a long tradition of European-style artisan cheesemaking. The company uses only the fresh milk from family-raised goats in California and Nevada, an example of its commitment to local farming and craftsmanship of fine goat’s milk cheese, which reflects the distinctive regional terroir. For sales information, please contact Fromartharie, Inc. at 908-647-6485 or visit www.laurachenel.com.
CLICK VENDOR LINK NO. 409

DELI


Murray’s Grandma’s Chicken Soup Kit in Time for Flu Season
Murray’s Chicken has launched Murray’s Grandma’s Chicken Soup Kit, which provides the all-natural, wholesome farm-fresh ingredients and simple instructions to guarantee a perfect pot of soup every time. Included in the kit is an all-natural, antibiotic- and hormone-free chicken already cut up. A sealed pouch full of great-tasting, fresh-cut, all-natural classic soup vegetables contains carrots, celery chunks, sliced onions, potatoes, parsnips, leek and dill. The no-fail directions guarantee a foolproof and kvetch-proof pot of delicious chicken soup that would make grandma proud every time. Just add the chicken, the fresh vegetables, kosher salt and pepper in a pot of water. Murray’s soup kit generously feeds a family of six. Cooks can add noodles, rice or matzo balls to make soup extra-hearty, or serve the broth and chicken separately for lighter fare.

In keeping with its commitment to the environment, the soup kit packaging is eco-friendly and eliminates the typical foam tray. Purchasers can also use Murray’s Farm Source Verification code on the outside of the package to find out more about the family and the farm where the soup chicken was raised. An industry leader in the compassionate treatment of animals, Murray’s proudly carries the prestigious Certified Humane label awarded by Humane Farm Animal Care. Murray’s compassionately raised family-farmed chickens are fed an all-vegetable diet with no animal byproducts. No antibiotics, growth hormones or preservatives are administered.

Murray’s Grandma’s Chicken Soup is packed 3-4 pounds per package. Average retail price is $2.59/pound. For more information, go to www.murrayschicken.com.
CLICK VENDOR LINK NO. 402


Marukome Miso USA Rolls Out to Supermarkets Across America
Marukome Miso, Japan’s best-selling, highest-quality miso manufacturer, has launched a nationwide rollout of its various miso products, all made in a state-of-the-art Irvine, Calif. facility, expressly for the American market. Probably known best in the United States as soup, miso is a fermented paste made of soybeans and rice or barley. Miso has been a staple of the Japanese diet for centuries, and was once actually used as the fundamental currency exchanged in the market. In today’s society, miso is the major food ingredient for the Japanese household, with miso soup being the most important part of a Japanese breakfast because it’s flavorful, delicious and good for you. As in yogurt, there are positive digestive bacilli produced in the fermentation process, so miso also has the benefit of providing amino acids, vitamins, minerals and dietary fiber.

But Marukome Miso is much more than a soup. It adds a delightful flavor to fish. Marinating black cod or salmon in ready-made Marukome Miso Yaki Marinades and then grilling is one of the easiest and tastiest dishes one can prepare. Yaki Marinades for meat are rich, savory and sweet. Miso marinades are favorites of some of the most famous Japanese chefs in America. Marukome Miso is available in paste, marinades and sauces for meat and fish, salad dressings, and a variety of instant soup products. Marukome Miso, one of the oldest miso manufacturers in Japan, was established in 1854. The company produces over 90,500 tons of miso annually, ranking No. 1 in miso production in Japan. For more information, distribution and ordering, contact Miyuki Nagano, 949-863-0110 or visit www.marukomeusa.com.
CLICK VENDOR LINK NO. 405


Putney Pasta Adds Chicken Pomodoro to Skillet Meal Line
The Natural Pasta Company, LLC d/b/a Putney Pasta, the delightfully different pasta brand known for its inventive recipes and quality ingredients, has announced the addition of Chicken Pomodoro to its restaurant-quality line of all-natural Skillet Meals, the No. 1 selling line of all-natural skillet meals in the United States. Chicken Pomodoro features chicken containing no added hormones or antibiotics, and fed a 100 percent vegetarian diet; florets of broccoli; mozzarella cheese; and bowtie pasta masterfully combined in a delicate marinara sauce. Chicken Pomodoro rounds out Putney Pasta’s Skillet Meal line that also includes Chicken Alfredo, Chicken Piccata, Shrimp Scampi and Shrimp Pesto. The two shrimp items feature sustainably sourced, chemical-free shrimp. Putney Pasta’s new Chicken Pomodoro serves two, cooks in less than 10 minutes and will be sold at a suggested retail price of $8.99 to $10.99 at natural and conventional retail chains nationwide. For more information, visit www.putneypasta.com.
CLICK VENDOR LINK NO. 408