-By Kristin V. Montalvo

Tamari
Tamari refers to a soy sauce traditionally brewed with soybeans and little or no wheat, giving it a more elegant flavor than ordinary soy sauce. Considered a premium soy sauce, it is mainly sold in natural food stores, gourmet specialty food stores and upscale markets. Tamari has a noticeably smoother, less bitter taste than soy sauce brewed with half wheat, making it much more versatile -- it can be used in everything from oriental cooking to meats, vegetables, grains and even dairy foods.

One of Japan's oldest and best-kept culinary secrets, Tamari dates back to the seventh century when the Japanese learned that the process of fermenting whole soybeans creates a flavorful, protein-rich liquid. This liquid became known as "Tamari," meaning "that which accumulates," and quickly became a prized seasoning.

Tamari is made with more soybeans than ordinary soy sauce, resulting in a smoother, more balanced and complex flavor. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the manufacturing of soy sauce developed from a household art to a commercial industry. To increase production, the thick, whole soybean mixture was replaced with a mixture of half wheat and half soybean. The new liquid resulting from fermentation became known as Shoyu, the common type of soy sauce used today.

Three main categories of soy sauce are available in the United States: Tamari, naturally brewed and made primarily with soybeans; Shoyu, also naturally brewed and made from half soybean and half wheat; and Nonbrewed, which is made from hydrolyzed vegetable protein.

In the West, there is a great deal of confusion surrounding tamari. This is because Japanese shoyus were originally introduced, marketed and sold in the West as "tamari," rather than being differentiated by type. As a result, a wide range of products were known by the "tamari" name when true tamari soy sauce was introduced. This has been especially problematic for the gluten intolerant, as tamari is naturally gluten-free, but shoyu is not, since shoyu is traditionally fermented with wheat.

In fact, tamari soy sauce is distinct from other types of shoyu and soy sauces from other regions, and it cannot be interchanged with sauces like usukuchi shoyu or Indonesian kecap. Tamari is rich with a tangy flavor from the miso fermentation process, and it is one of the darkest forms of Japanese shoyu. Because there is a bit of confusion about shoyu labeling in the United States, people with gluten intolerance should read labels on tamari soy sauce carefully to ensure that it is true tamari, fermented without any gluten.

When judging soy sauce, the characteristics to look for are aroma, appearance and, most importantly, taste. Tamari has a soft, rich aroma; a very smooth flavor; and a well-balanced taste. Shoyu, although a modern-day brewed soy sauce with a balanced taste, is sharper than Tamari due to the difference in raw materials and a stronger alcoholic fermentation. Nonbrewed has a strong, unbalanced taste; a salty aftertaste; and is completely unlike Tamari and modern-day brewed soy sauce.

With 37 percent more protein, Tamari also has unique flavor-enhancing qualities and can be used as a substitute for salt, reducing sodium content without compromising taste. While the alcohol and wheat in Shoyu cause it to change flavor after cooking, Tamari retains its full flavor following high-temperature cooking and microwaving. It is an excellent seasoning for meat, poultry, seafood and sauces. Using Tamari instead of salt can also reduce sodium intake up to 30 percent.


Pressure Cookers
Pressure cookers have been in existence for hundreds of years, but unlike pressure cookers of the past, the pressure cookers of today have numerous safety features such as locking handles and pressure release valves that make this type of cookware completely safe and easy to use. Conventional recipes can be used with slight modifications, and several foods can be prepared in a pressure cooker at one time.

Pressure cooking is a fast, safe, convenient and healthful way to prepare a wide variety of foods from vegetables to meats and desserts. Because less liquid is required to cook foods, fewer nutrients are lost during the cooking process. The pressure cooker actually enhances the natural flavor of meats, grains and vegetables. Additionally, cooking foods under pressure equals quicker preparation. The pressure cooker saves as much as 60 to 70 percent of the cooking time, which also cuts energy costs. Other advantages include the multiple safety features of advanced "second-generation" pressure cookers. The combination of nutrient preservation, fast cooking times, multiple safety features and ease of use makes pressure cookers the do-all cookware for today's kitchens.

The principle of pressure cooking is really quite simple. Because the pressure cooker is airtight, pressure builds up inside as the liquid begins to boil. The resulting trapped steam causes the internal temperature to rise. Since cooking occurs at a higher temperature, the food cooks faster. The additional heat also results in more tender meat and bean dishes.

The pressure of the trapped steam can be measured in pound of force per square inch or PSI. You will often find this term in pressure cooking recipes. It refers to how many pounds of pressure per square inch you will be cooking with. (Don't worry if this sounds very technical. The instructions that came with your pressure cooker will tell you how to read the PSI.)

The gasket or rubber ring is another important component of today's pressure cookers, as this makes a seal that traps in steam and heat, and allows pressure to build. The gasket fits on the side part of the cover. In order to make sure you get a good seal, make sure all the components are clean and free from food particles.
Even in the old days, most pressure cooker disasters could usually be attributed to user error, much like my mother and the beans. Nonetheless, today's pressure cookers offer a much higher safety level than their predecessors. For one thing, you can't open them until the pressure is released to 0 PSI.

Today's pressure cookers have at least three valves for safety and will automatically release pressure should it build too high. Different types of pressure cookers have different styles of valves (refer to the instructions that came with yours), but if you hear hissing or noise coming from the cooker, it's the valve telling you to check the pressure.


Releasing Steam
You cannot open today's pressure cookers until you completely release the pressure from the pot -- a huge safety improvement over the pressure cookers of yesteryear. Depending on what you're making, you will release steam, and therefore pressure, from your pressure cooker via the natural release or quick release methods. The recipe will tell you which the preferred method is:

The Natural Release Method -- This method merely means you remove the pressure cooker from the heat and wait for the pressure to slowly release as the temperature of the pot lowers. Foods like soups or tough cuts of meat benefit from this extra cooking time, becoming more tender and flavorful.

Quick Release Method -- Some pressure cookers have an automatic release method (check the instructions that came with yours). A quick-release feature proves extremely handy, as it reduces the pressure inside the cooker in as little as two minutes.


What to Look For
The feature that will most affect the pressure cooker's performance is the thickness of the base. Ultimately, a thick, solid aluminum bottom serves best. Additionally, consider pressure cookers with advanced options, such as spring-loaded valves that offer a visual indicator when full pressure has been achieved.

Pressure cookers are available in several different sizes and types, from the traditional stockpot cooker to more specialized models, such as a frying pan pressure cooker. First, determine how many people the customer typically cooks for and what type of foods he or she usually prepares. An industry standard is a 5- or 6-quart cooker. For meat dishes, a frying pan type might prove best. While meat is cooking in one pressure cooker, rice or potatoes can be cooking in a 3- or 4-quart unit. For bean dishes, stocks or when cooking for larger families, a 7- or 8-quart pressure cooker is recommended. The more consumers cook with a pressure cooker, the more they will realize the potential benefits of having a second or a third pressure cooker on the stove.


Merchandising Tips
Pull a demonstration pressure cooker from your inventory and allow staff members to take the product home and experiment with it.

Become an authority on pressure cookers in your community by holding frequent demonstrations, encouraging local food writers to address the topic, and incorporating Pressure Cooker Classes into your cooking school curriculum. Set up a Pressure Cooker Merchandising Program amongst your staff. Schedule a workshop designed to both educate and excite them about the product.

Display pressure cookers alongside sets and other cooking pots and pans to show that they are an integral part of the broad food preparation family tool kit. Some cookware vendors are offering sets with pressure cookers included.