While it’s not always possible for your customers to buy organic, you should help them understand the trade-offs.
I was admonished recently in the produce aisle of my local grocery store as I placed a bunch of organic bananas in my shopping basket.
“My husband says that’s a scam,” said the woman whose advice I had definitely not solicited. “He’s a scientist and he says those aren’t really organic.”
I smiled and said, how interesting, and proceeded to put the organic bananas in my basket. It’s not that I go out of my way to spend more on food (the organic bananas were more expensive than conventional ones but not exorbitantly so); nor do I necessarily do the opposite of what people tell me just for the sake of not being told what to do (although I do that a little bit). No, the reason I bought those bananas was because I believe in buying organic foods and that by doing so I make a statement. In other words, I vote with my food dollars.
Going Green in the Pantry
For some strange reason, the same people who readily embrace the Slow Food movement, country-of-origin labels and gourmet foods in general are often slow to understand why they should support organic foods. They will pay extra to know that their cheese was handcrafted by Cistercian monks and only during the spring milking period, but will scoff at paying 49 cents extra for organic bananas when they don’t look any different than conventionally grown bananas. This baffles me because part of the reason I want to know where my food is from is because I want to be assured that it is made by people who care about the food, the animals and the land, and not just about the recipe. When I know a cheesemaker uses only milk from animals raised without hormones and antibiotics, or that the cheesemaker’s herd of dairy animals grazes in pristine fields unsullied by chemicals, then I know that is a cheese I want to eat and to give to others. The same is true for certified organic foods. In an age where food pedigrees are so important, it puzzles me that organics would ever be excluded from that. Certified organic, according to the Organic Trade Association (OTA), “means the item has been grown according to strict uniform standards that are verified by independent state or private organizations … includes inspection of farm fields and processing facilities, detailed record keeping, and periodic testing of soil and water to ensure that growers and handlers are meeting standards which have been set.”
That doesn’t sound much different to me than what any name-protected food has to adhere to in terms of standards of production. True, name-protection regulations are in place to protect the flavor profile of a particular food, not the planet, but the results are pretty much the same. For example, most name-protected cheeses have stipulations as to how the animals are raised, what they are allowed to eat, how the milk is handled after it is in the production facility and so on. That’s part of why I like to buy classic, name-controlled cheeses rather than huge blocks of nondescript yellow cheese that is made in a giant factory, well, someplace, who knows where.
Of course, it’s not always possible to buy organic but even then you should be aware of the trade-offs. There are some foods for which I will always seek out the organic version or not buy it at all, such as certain fruits and vegetables (strawberries to name just one example), and fresh dairy products. That’s not hard to do these days, even if you don’t live in Berkeley like I do. We now buy all our milk, butter, sour cream, buttermilk and ice cream from organic producers. I am less rigid about cheese because, frankly, there is so much less organic cheese, but also because the process of turning milk into cheese makes it a different animal altogether. Also, I make it a point to know something about the cheesemakers that make the cheese I like to eat.
Here’s how the OTA defines organics:
“Organic production is based on a system of farming that maintains and replenishes soil fertility without the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and fertilizers. Organically produced foods also must be produced without the use of antibiotics, synthetic hormones, genetic engineering and other excluded practices, sewage sludge, or irradiation. Cloning animals or using their products would be considered inconsistent with organic practices. Organic foods are minimally processed without artificial ingredients, preservatives, or irradiation to maintain the integrity of the food.”
That, in effect, also maintains the integrity of the flavor of the food. In fact, I maintain, with very few exceptions, that organic food tastes better. It may not always be as pretty as industrially raised food but then again I doubt that a perfectly round orange-colored orange is really what an orange is supposed to look like anyway. In fact, I find that the more perfect a fruit looks, fruit that is ready for its close-up on the cover of a glossy food magazine, the less flavor it probably has. There are many good reasons to buy organic foods: flavor, personal health, the health of the soil, water and air, the support of family farms, and on and on. However, the OTA says it all much better than I could so I share with you their reasons for supporting organic agriculture and food production. This is from the OTA’s Web site, which I encourage everyone to visit often (www.ota.com):
“Organic products meet stringent standards. Organic certification is the public’s assurance that products have been grown and handled according to strict procedures without persistent toxic chemical inputs.
Organic food tastes great! It’s common sense — well-balanced soils produce strong, healthy plants that become nourishing food for people and animals.
Organic production reduces health risks. Many EPA-approved pesticides were registered long before extensive research linked these chemicals to cancer and other diseases. Organic agriculture is one way to prevent any more of these chemicals from getting into the air, earth and water that sustain us.
Organic farms respect our water resources. The elimination of polluting chemicals and nitrogen leaching, done in combination with soil building, protects and conserves water resources.
Organic farmers build healthy soil. Soil is the foundation of the food chain. The primary focus of organic farming is to use practices that build healthy soils.
Organic farmers work in harmony with nature. Organic agriculture respects the balance demanded of a healthy ecosystem: wildlife is encouraged by including forage crops in rotation and by retaining fence rows, wetlands, and other natural areas.
Organic producers are leaders in innovative research. Organic farmers have led the way, largely at their own expense, with innovative on-farm research aimed at reducing pesticide use and minimizing agriculture’s impact on the environment.
Organic producers strive to preserve diversity. The loss of a large variety of species (biodiversity) is one of the most pressing environmental concerns. The good news is that many organic farmers and gardeners have been collecting and preserving seeds, and growing unusual varieties for decades.
Organic farming helps keep rural communities healthy. USDA reported that in 1997, half of U.S. farm production came from only 2 percent of farms. Organic agriculture can be a lifeline for small farms because it offers an alternative market where sellers can command fair prices for crops.
Organic abundance — foods and nonfoods alike! Now every food category has an organic alternative. And nonfood agricultural products are being grown organically — even cotton, which most experts felt could not be grown this way.”
