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Everyday Ethnic
By Jennifer Strailey
We're a nation of food-obsessed, adventures-of-the-palate-seeking grazers, nibblers and noshers. We hunger for a taste of what's new, and increasingly that means more exotic fare from the four corners of the world. Fragrant lamb tagine, Thai noodles, paella and tamales — ethnic cuisine is what's for dinner in America.
Globally Inspired Cookware Comes Home
The International Housewares Association Vice President of Marketing and Trade Development Perry Reynolds agrees. "There appears to be increased attention paid to alternative or ethnically inspired cooking methods and tools," he says. What's spurring this interest? Reynolds sees a few powerful drivers converging in the cazuela. "Among them are global travel, which creates viral culinary buzz the old fashioned way, enhanced interest in chefs, especially those willing to explore non-traditional cooking techniques and the globalization of many of the world's cities, which juxtaposes the cuisines of each group with those of other cultures," he observes. Casablanca Cooks
"I've been here at the store for a little over two years and in that time we've doubled our SKUs in the ethnic cookware category," notes Kessenich. Business is going so well, the store tripled in size when it moved to its new location a half-block from the Capitol Square in Madison in October. When asked the secret to their success with ethnic cookware, accessories, foods and cookbooks, Kessenich says, "It could be because it's my passion. I don't go home and cook all-American grilled cheese. Even if I'm making barbecue, it's with an ethnic flair like Greek or Spanish. That's just the way I roll." Fast Fact Sales of casserole dishes were up Her enthusiasm for ethnic food and cookware has inspired an immersion approach to merchandising. Take The Kitchen Gallery's North African-themed offerings, for example. "We're heavy into tagines," says Kessenich, who carries Le Souk's hand-painted versions and pottery, along with Emile Henri tagines in eight different colors. All are merchandised together with a line of food from Tunisia and cookbooks. "People want to walk away with something new and be immersed in it," asserts Kessenich. "A visual presentation that is attractive and comprehensive captures the customer's interest and creativity. We engage the customer with passion."
The strategy is working beautifully. "Not a day goes by that a customer doesn't comment on it," says Kessenich of the tagine display. Now that she's tickled her customers' fancies with tagines, she is preparing to take on their tastebuds. A cooking school is in the works, and plans are already underway to work with a local Moroccan chef who will do instructional cooking in North African cuisine. The Kitchen Gallery is not only going the distance with global cookware, it is also bringing its unique offerings home. Its August newsletter featured an employee's family recipes for paella, tapas and sangria, along with product photography and shots of the store. "From now on we're focusing on local chef's recipes and in-house recipes. We want to be new and different," notes Kessenich. Tagines are equally hot at Mrs. Cook's in Seattle. Owner Carol Bromel stocks both Emile Henri and Le Creuset. "What surprises me is how many we sell. Two years ago, when we first brought in tagines, we might sell one every couple of months. Now it's unusual if we don't sell two or three a month," says Bromel. The versatility of the tagine is part of its allure, continues Bromel. "Tagines are new and distinctive and the foods that come out of them are healthy, moist, full of flavor and more interesting to the palate," she notes. "Tagines also allow you to make something delicious with whatever you have on hand, like meat and vegetables or fish and vegetables." Mediterranean Merchandising
The Spanish Table Deli Manager/Buyer George Calvo describes the store as more of a destination for people interested in Spanish cooking and wine than a place where customers need to be introduced to the concept of paella before they buy. That said, the retailer draws considerable attention to its offerings beginning with a 200-person paella pan. "It's kind of a spectacle," says Calvo of the pan. "It really attracts attention and people can see that it's a cost-effective way to feed a crowd." True to a destination store, The Spanish Table's paella pan selection has depth and breadth. The store offers pans in four different varieties: carbon steel, enamel-coated, stainless steel and a flat-bottomed version specifically for glass-top stoves. The comprehensive array of paella pans is complemented by the best paella rice. "You can't sell pans without the rice. Paella is all about the rice," asserts Calvo. The Spanish Table makes an equally impressive statement with its cazuelas. As consumers have returned in greater numbers to the comforts of home cooking in recent years, casserole dishes in all shapes, sizes and ethnicities have made a comeback. According to the NPD Group, sales of casserole dishes were up 53 percent for the 12 months ending June 2011, versus the previous 12 months. The market research company headquartered in Port Washington, N.Y., puts total casserole sales for June 2010 to June 2011 at more than $19.5 million. Cazuelas, the quintessential Spanish casserole dish, is well loved by Calvo and his customers. The Spanish Table carries a diverse selection that runs the gamut in sizes from large enough for a feast to small enough for an intimate meal. "If we had a smaller collection, the presentation wouldn't be as impressive," notes Calvo. "Cookware trends tend to follow food." Asian Invasion
A look at the National Restaurant Association's "What's Hot in 2011," serves up a global smorgasbord of flavors. The annual survey, which polled more than 1,500 chefs in the U.S. about the hottest food trends on restaurant menus this year, put ethnic street food as the No. 1 appetizer trend in the nation. Ethnic fusion cuisine, Southeast Asian cuisine, Asian noodles and Latin American/nuevo Latino cuisine all made the top 100-list of hot menu trends. At Kitchen Art in West Lafayette, Ind., Owner Larry Oates has seen his customers delve into a variety of Asian cuisines from Japanese to Vietnamese. "Stir fry continues to be popular, but not necessarily Chinese stir fry. Now the interest is on Thai and Vietnamese stir fry or noodles," he observes. Once a cuisine left purely to the experts, sushi is now a home-prepared dish enjoyed by many Kitchen Art customers. "More and more people are interested in rolling their own sushi," says Oates. "I think part of that is the number of grocery stores carrying it. People look at that and think it's not that many ingredients, 'I bet I could make that at home less expensively.' "
Kitchen Art is encouraging the trend with regular cooking classes that showcase a variety of ethnic flavors. Among the classes they have offered was a Vietnamese noodles class, a sushi lesson, a North African tagine how-to, and a quick and easy stir fry class led by Chinese culinary expert Helen Chen. In terms of merchandising, Oates's vision is to put all of the tools, gadgets and cookware for a particular cuisine in one accessible location. "It's so important to merchandise all the materials together — the sushi mats with the rice cookers and sushi molds. Put all the ingredients in one place so customers can pick them up and go," he says. When it comes to ethnic cookware and accessories, Oates believes providing choices at a variety of price points "is absolutely imperative." "Some customers want the best quality, they've been into the cuisine for a while, as opposed to someone who is trying a particular cuisine for the first time and doesn't want to spend a fortune." While selection is critical, Oates also cautions against trying to be all things to all people. His advice: Determine which ethnic cuisines you want to focus on and make a statement. "If you decide to go in to something, stock all of the necessary items for the home chef to be successful. If you just have woks and no bamboo tools or steamers, you're not going to become a destination for ethnic cooking." Lovers of Latin/Nuevo Latin Flavors
"The core Hispanic consumer cooks a hot meal four to six times a week," says Manny Gaunaurd, president and CEO of IMUSA USA, in Doral, Fla. Knowing that home cooking plays such an important role in the Hispanic family lifestyle, five years ago Gaunaurd identified an untapped market for this under-represented housewares shopper. In 2006, Gaunaurd, who had been working in his family's wholesale housewares business in Miami, partnered with Colombian housewares brand, IMUSA to bring the brand's small appliances, cookware and gadgets to the U.S. In its first four years in business, IMUSA's sales grew by 200 percent. Today, IMUSA is the leading Hispanic housewares brand in the U.S. market. Gaunaurd attributes his success, at least in part, to the company's knowledge of what he calls "the two distinct cultures in the Hispanic market. It's not one size fits all," he explains. The Caribbean/Hispanic consumer hailing from Cuba, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic and South America prepares a similar style of cuisine, while the Central American/Mexican consumer makes another type of food.
"Retailers need to understand that while some cookware, gadgets and appliances overlap, there are also differences depending on someone's country of origin," explains Gaunaurd. He points to calderos, which are used by Caribbean influenced Hispanics to make rice or deep-fried dishes and by those of Mexican descent to make rice or stews. A tamale steamer might be an everyday tool for a Mexican shopper, whereas Caribbean-rooted consumers will use it seasonally for Thanksgiving and Christmas or to steam fish. As the Hispanic market evolves in this country, there are new and exciting opportunities for retailers of cookware, notes Gaunaurd. In addition to the two distinct culinary cultures in the Hispanic market, he also identifies differences between the traditional Hispanic shopper and the modern Hispanic shopper. The new generation of Hispanics, who were born and raised in the U.S., has embraced the melting pot mentality. Many of them enjoy pizza and Indian food as much as home cooked Latin dishes. Gaunaurd sees continued growth in the ethnic cookware category, as consumers representing a United Nations of backgrounds embrace traditional and Nuevo Latin cooking. "We've seen a great deal of interest from non-Hispanics in these foods and food preparations," he says. "It used to be that Hispanic dishes were the foods of take-out, but now consumers want to prepare these dishes at home."
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