In Print » August 2011 » Cover Story »

In 1977, Ron Eisenberg left Cleveland — his wife, three children and two dogs in tow — for San Diego. There, the former pharmacist set out to open what he describes as "a functional housewares store with a greeting card department in the back." He named it Great News!, short for "great new items all the time," Eisenberg says.

Although his college degree was in pharmacy, it was while running his own corner drug store (Caroll Drug) that Eisenberg discovered his true love: retail.

Great News! Cookware & Cooking School boasts technically trained employees, some of whom have been with the retailer for several years, as well as a state-of-the-art kitchen, where instructors teach seven days a week.

"People really liked the presentation," says the company's founder and president about the initial Great News! layout. "It was gift and decorative accessories — stemware, casual dining, gift and decorative accessories for the kitchen and some bath, even." Meanwhile, Eisenberg's wife, Carol, ran the department in the back, which consisted of "very cool and hip" greeting cards.

Eisenberg went on to open two more locations in the ‘80s, but eventually scaled back to just one storefront so that the retailer could really focus on what people wanted: kitchenware, specifically, and an alternative to chain stores. Without any professional training, he set out to learn all the technical aspects of cutlery, cookware and electrics, and trained his staff to do the same, selling shoppers not what they think they want, but what they actually need.

In 1995, Eisenberg's wife became terminally ill with breast cancer. After her passing, Eisenberg closed the greeting card department, replacing it in October of the following year with a cooking school.

Photography by Vito Palmisano

"I went out and saw existing cookware stores that had cooking schools and thought I could do it differently and better," he says. "I put a big sign in the window: ‘Cooking school coming.' We got instant approval."

Thus, Great News! Cookware & Cooking School was born.

It was during construction of the cooking school that Eisenberg met his second wife, Devora, "a good cook" who gave input on the project, he says. Although she does not work at the store, Devora still contributes to projects at Great News! (Her blown glasswork also is on display in the cooking school.)

Having escaped northern Ohio for California, Eisenberg understands the importance of location. In deciding where to open his initial store, he went with a 4,800-square-foot space in San Diego's Pacific Plaza Shopping Center. It was in 2001, while Eisenberg was considering a move off the premises, that his landlord offered him a 6,200-square-foot storefront in the same plaza. As part of the deal, Great News! acquired a 7,000-square-foot warehouse upstairs, where it houses inventory as well as offices. The new space also allowed for a bigger cooking school on the first floor.

Cooking School Days
Over the years, Great News! Cooking School has grown considerably. Its quarterly curriculum schedule currently is mailed to 52,000 active recipients, four times a year; an additional 22,000 opt-in subscribers receive an e-blast one week before the booklet mails out that includes discount coupons and a chance at early class registration.

Although the mailing is a huge expense, "we can't seem to get away from it," Eisenberg says. In fact, Great News! lost 10,000 subscribers when it tried to switch everyone to e-mail. Over the course of a year, the school built its list back up with new customers, including those who still prefer real mail. If a customer does not attend a cooking class or shop in the store for 12 months, then he or she is removed from the mailing list.

Located at the rear of the store, the cooking school features a state-of-the-art commercial kitchen with six stovetop burners, a grill, a fridge and freezer, blenders, KitchenAid stand mixers, knife blocks and hundreds of tools and gadgets, plus seating for up to 52 students, who also can sit at a bar up front (otherwise known as "the splash zone"). Instructors wear microphones and are captured on camera, at five different angles, via seven flat-screen TVs.

General Manager Erika D'Eugenio calls it "an approachable, sophisticated cooking school" that boasts classes on everything from baking bread to making sausage. It is staffed by 5-6 regular instructors and up to 15-20 guest chefs, including cookbook authors and celebrity chefs such as Richard Sweeney and Brian Malarkey from "Top Chef" and Hugh Carpenter from TV's "Top Chef." The school hosts local instructors, too.

"We are grateful to have chefs from local restaurants come and share their culinary secrets, such as Ingrid Croce from Croce's and MaryAnn Vitale from La Taverna," D'Eugenio says.

Students, who range in age from 35-65, can choose between demonstration and hands-on courses. Leading options include Basic Knife Skills, in which participants (including a lot of men) learn how to handle and care for knives, and It's in the Farmer's Market Bag, where instructors explain how to use farmer's market ingredients to prepare fresh foods — every class member also gets to take home a bag of market picks of the month from Specialty Produce, a wholesale distributor in San Diego. (In general, the school's male clientele are most interested in meat-based classes on the preparation of steak, ribs and wild game run by Iowa Meat Farms/Siesel's Meats, a local butcher.) The school's newest subjects include cheesemaking and Quick & Easy Lunches.

Classes start at 6 p.m., seven days a week, and run 2.5 hours, on average; two additional classes are held on Saturdays and Sundays. One class that sells out consistently is sushi-making. The class that sells out the fastest is Friday Night Dinner Party, which changes constantly. Among the school's summer subjects were Spanish Flavors with cookbook author Phillis Carey, and A Gluten-Free Dinner Party, Gourmet Outdoor Dining and Hands-On Summer Starters, all led by executive chef Katherine Emmenegger.

When class is in session, there's a different vibe or energy in the store, Wale notes.

Although Friday, Saturday and Sunday are Great News!' busiest days at retail, Tuesday and Thursday nights, during which classes are taught by local restaurant owners, are high traffic points for the cooking school.

"We have nine cooking classes a week, all featuring specific products, which we show on the center table for selling purposes before, during and after class," D'Eugenio says. "The classes work as a great marketing tool for the products we sell in the store, showing the attendees the features and benefits of each item."

Students receive a 10 percent discount on items in the store, a fact that may contribute to the attendance of class regulars. Those who attend 10 classes get one free, per the retailer's loyalty program.

The school's shopper drives all over the county for instructors on a weekly basis, sourcing local produce and products when possible. For example, the retailer frequents Pacific Shellfish in San Diego. It also buys from grocers such as Trader Joe's, Ralph's and Von's. Some items are obtained in bulk. Others come from ethnic grocers, for Asian or Mexican dishes, for example. (Great News!' cooking school also offers tours of local farms such as Susie's Organic Farm in Imperial Beach, Calif., and its favorite resort: Rancho La Puerta in Mexico. Customers can rent the kitchen and schedule private parties, too.)

Small electrics are an important part of the product mix at Great News! Bottom: Customer service is key for the San Diego retailer.

Last year, the retailer held a competition for The Next Great News! Chef. The winner: Cappie Geis, a certified nutritionist and home chef whose focus, "from fat to fabulous," filled a void in the lineup, notes Buyer Tiffany Wale. Geis was chosen from among 12 finalists who eventually were narrowed down to three.

This past year was the most profitable for the cooking school, Eisenberg notes. He credits the fact that classes are entertaining, educational and a good value. It's someplace you can go for $50 per person, taste some food and walk out with recipes, he suggests.

As such, "We are very proud of everything the cooking school has become and are looking forward to many more years of sharing cooking knowledge and product information in a fun and inspiring way," D'Eugenio says.

Cookware and Why
When they're not taking classes at the cooking school, customers are shopping the store, which carries every major brand of cookware. Other available categories include small electrics, bakeware, cutlery, gourmet foods, scales, paper products, linens and gadgets.

"Our gadgets wall is huge," says D'Eugenio of its best-selling category, citing popular items such as Harold Imports' meat pounder and Rösle's garlic press. "We try to sell people the right gadget, and we try to sell it once."

No matter what the category, Great News! offers several options of each. Wale says she is always amazed at how many more brands it carries when compared to major kitchenware chains.

For example, "We don't have just one fish turner — we have six," Wale notes. The store sells also 36 styles of muffin cup holders, at least 15 different garlic presses and a variety of pepper grinders (which customers are invited to try).

Given its West Coast location, and the fact that "burgers are still big," as D'Eugenio says, Great News! promotes barbecue tools year-round.

When it comes to trends, Great News! strives to stay on top of what's hot.

For example, "Storage is a big category this year," D'Eugenio says. Fruit prep also is a key customer interest right now, as is color.

Although Great News! sticks to basics such as function over fashion, "we couldn't help but do color this year," D'Eugenio admits. New items from Bodum and Nespresso Pixie come in bright hues. Great News! also carries Le Creuset in every shade and sells "a piece a day, at least," she notes.

Among the other trends in cookware that the store has witnessed is high-quality, American-made, nonstick cookware (free from PFOA and PTFE).

Canning is regaining popularity right now, too, as people become more concerned about what they're eating and interest in farm-to-table grows, D'Eugenio says, adding that the author of "Canning for Dummies" is an instructor at the Great News! Cooking School.

In addition, pressure cookers have become a hot commodity. To help customers better understand this tool, Great News! provides a free copy of "Pressure Perfect" by Lorna Sass (who also teaches at the cooking school) with every purchase.

Furthermore, "Breadmakers are back," asserts D'Eugenio, who adds that consumers are even making their own flour now.

All in all, Great News! adds about 3,500 new items a year, Eisenberg says, "and we probably get rid of as many … I'm not married to my preset inventory. I'm always looking for what's next." Among the retailers recently introduced items are kitchen accessories from Joseph Joseph.

"We are voracious buyers," Eisenberg says.

Shelf-stable gourmet food products account for 10 percent of the retailer's business. To promote these items, Great News! offers samples, letting shoppers taste-test at least eight premium olive oils per day as well as upscale vinegars, for example. Sales associates are happy to walk customers through the process, Wale notes.

The food aisle itself features everything from scone and cake mixes to sauces and condiments. Salt is another hot category that people are even giving as hostess gifts, says Wale, who adds that jams from brands such as Aloha from Hawaii also are great for gift-giving. Great News! supports local vendors such as Sauce Goddess and The Rub Co. as well as national accounts such as Barefoot Contessa and Vosges Haut Chocolat. Its No. 1-selling foodstuff: Stonewall Kitchen.

When it comes to product selection, "we don't know how to say no, and we try to find vendors who agree with us," Eisenberg asserts, referring to the retailer's strong partnerships, which took years to build. "We had to fight hard to gain stature and respect, but we now have a lot of great partnerships with a lot of major vendors."

Although Great News! is open to suggestion, new vendors have to offer something different or replace a partner we're not happy with, Eisenberg says.

"They have to come to our store and see if their merchandise fits," he explains, adding that suppliers also have to "sell" Wale on the phone first."We just don't have the time. It has to be a brand-new item that excites us or a new concept, which we're always open to. We try to be first. We're pretty nimble. We don't have to go through the gyrations of a big chain."

The Great News! gadget wall is huge; Colorful small electrics are hot this year; Cookware is available in sets, but sold mostly as open stock; Demos at the center of the store showcase how to use new products.

Merchandising Matters
When it comes to merchandising,Great News! does not rely on a planogram. Instead, staff members brainstorm ideas during weekly buying meetings and move items around seasonally.

"We change our window displays and endcaps monthly, focusing on current themes and fads," D'Eugenio notes. During The Gourmet Retailer's visit, front windows featured Father's Day fare such as grilling tools and San Diego Fair-themed items such as funnel cake mix.

"We also feature new items in the center of the store, showcasing their benefits and allowing customers to try them," she says. During visit, demo subjects included a travel espresso maker using a CO cartridge and a snow cone machine. Small-screen TVs looped videos demonstrating how to use each.

Up front, popular products are prominently featured. They include a cutlery wall of knives, honing steels, sharpeners and scissors, plus an aisle of items by Rösle, which recently named Great News! its No. 1 Independent retailer. Nearby is a display dedicated to kid-safe options.

Cookware brands are grouped together; All-Clad alone take up five aisles (32 square feet). Mauviel copper cookware (which comes in "a new nonstick set we love," D'Eugenio says) and Scanpan also are among the cookware brands that have been great partners for the retailer. Although Great News! does offer sets, it mostly sells open-stock.

The retailer also carries a number of small electrics, including those from Cuisinart, Krups, KitchenAid, Bodum, Waring and Vitamix. One noteworthy item is the Sous Vide (French for "under vacuum") machine, which vacuum-seals and regulates temperature via a water bath. If you want a medium-rare steak or a carrot that's cooked through, but still vibrant in color, throw it in the Sous Vide, D'Eugenio suggests. Four times a year, Great News! offers a class on Sous Vide cooking.

Buy the Books
"Cookbook Alley." Top-selling titles include those by Food Network stars, local chefs and those specializing in gluten-free recipes as well as some by chefs who teach at Great News! cooking school.

In 2012, Great News! will debut its own cookbook — a seasonal title featuring recipes and hints from its curriculum, plus product mentions.

"We're in the final throes of editing and will go print in September or October," Eisenberg says. "I'm looking forward to this being the first of many."

Despite competition from online booksellers and club stores, Great News! has tried not to shrink its cookbook selections, as shoppers continue to purchase from the section.

"Our customers are extremely loyal," Wale says.

Catering to Customer Needs
"As we are a single location, we are a destination store," D'Eugenio says. "Our customers drive past major cookware retailers to get to our store, and many of them bring family and friends with them."

According to Eisenberg, only 40 percent of the customer base hails from the traditional 2.5- to 5-mile radius, while 60 percent come from much further.

"We're not really centrally located for San Diego, so we appreciate everyone who comes out of their neighborhood," he says.

The retailer's continued popularity among area cookware shoppers citywide is due largely to its extraordinary customer service. Great News! also offers a bridal registry and quarterly knife-sharpening events. In addition, customers can benefit from sit-down sessions with the retailer's kitchenware specialists.

Great News! is focused on "educating people and trying to give them what's best for them," says Eisenberg. "A lot of times, people ask for things that their friends have that aren't right for them — we try to ascertain that. We have sales associates who are committed to understanding everything that's new in the store in order to sell it in an intelligent way."

The retailer makes this possible through product training. Each staff member takes new products home to try and is asked to return with at least two recipes in mind that can be made with said product should a customer ask, Wale says.

"We listen to our customer's needs and interests," she continues. "We sell over 15,000 items and have an unrivaled selection of products. Customers are amazed at our level of options compared to other retailers. We have a trained and educated staff available to qualify needs and answer questions."

Many employees have been on staff for several years, some moving up the ladder into higher-level positions. For example, D'Eugenio started as a cashier in 2000, and Wale came onboard in 2002 as part-time clerical help.

Dreaming of the Future
"We had our best year ever in 2010," Eisenberg says. Part of the reason for that success is that "we never stopped advertising and promoting who we were, he notes. Eisenberg also attributes survival to having "an upscale customer who never really lost the ability to consume.

"We're selling what might not be to the average consumers a necessity, but to the upscale consumer, a really nice fry pan is a necessity," he says. "You can justify a $200 knife if you want to."

While some retailers dream of expanding into larger storefronts and additional markets, Eisenberg is content.

"We're all pretty busy here, so everyone's happy for the time being," he says. "I would like to see this location continue to grow."

Eisenberg gives thanks to the employees that make this possible.

"I've been blessed with good people I can train and watch grow to the point where they give me a tremendous amount of freedom and respect," he says. "It's the most pleasant place I can imagine working. I feel the same way about our customers. It's become a retailer's dream."